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Hi, have enjoyed reading your books. Was wondering what kind of bedding you use for circumnavigation taking in all the elements? Also, what kind of storage containers do you recommend for rice, flour, sugar etc...that last and keep things fresh? Thanks for the info...Jim

Hi Jim: There is no magic bullet on bedding, other than keeping the boat interior dry. Otherwise, we use the same type of sheets, blankets, and bed pads as at home. In the tropics you will want very light blankets.

As far as long-term storage, the best approach is to get a vacuum bagging machine. We use this for all sorts of food stuffs as well as spare parts. Regards - Steve

Steve, I've been reading your great site and wanted to ask a few questions/make a few comments.

With ventilation systems (including conditioned air)?

You don't seem to use ducted systems, is there any reason for this?

In my experience (non-marine), dual 6-inch (15cm) ducts would be adequate for the living area sizes you have. I'm not thinking of round ducts, but more a box section mounted in the 'eaves' area. Your thoughts? - Craig

Hi Craig: The ventilation issue is complex and involves many sea-going trade offs. Vent pressures are very low. - Steve

Dear Sir, I enjoyed your write up on using Armaflex for insolating the hull of your new FPB. Why did you use only 1/2" Armaflex on the hull for insulation? If you were planning to be in the Northwest most of the time, would you have used 1" or 1 1/2"? Did you equate an R-value for 1/2" Armaflex when compared to PF? Thanks, Dex

Hi Dex: There are a lot of trade-offs with insulation including weight, cost of materials, and labor to install. As we are only planning only to cruise during the summer months, we looked at the insulation strictly from the standpoint of condensation.

With condensation there are two factors as you probably know, temperature differential and humidity. We are based on a outside temperature of 22 degrees F/-5.5C inside ambient of 68F/20C, with a humidity of 70%. We can control the humidity, if required, with our dehumidifier to get more of a temperature differential.

Given the insulation value of the Armaflex, assuming no double glazing on the house windows, we expect a heater duty cycle of 50% in the coldest conditions.

Going to thicker insulation would reduce fuel burn and heater duty cycle, but for our purposes, and the expected temperature range (and most of the time the temperature outside would be well above our design point) we think we're OK.

We prefer not to use blown foams as they tend to absorb moisture over time and have been known to cause problems with aluminum, if they are in direct contact. Regards - Steve

PS-my notes on the R value of Armaflex are not handy right now, but you can get the technical specs from their website.

Hi Steve, I'm 6'4" tall and am wondering how soon I would begin to curse the day if I purchased a boat with less than 6'6" headroom. Would you suggest that I limit myself to designs having full headroom, probably in the 45 to 50 foot range, or does your experience indicate that I could adjust to 6'2" headroom and therefore be able to consider designs in the 40 to 45 foot range. Obviously no point in buying something I'm going to hate, so this is a critical question for me. Thx, David

Hi David: First, the only way to get a handle on this is to spend some time cruising on boats with different headroom levels. An inch one way or the other can make a big difference. I'd suggest going to a fall boat show, tape in hand, and see what feels right and what doesn't. Then, hitch a ride for a few days or charter with comparable headroom to see how it works.

What we know from our own experience is wearing (or not wearing) shoes makes a big difference, as does individual posture. Most boats have max headroom at the center, and then lose it as you work off center.

You will also want to look at the room in the toilet and bath compartments, bunk size, and saloon and cockpit seat ergonomics. Good Luck - Steve

I have several of your books (my wife accuses me of having them memorized). I spent a number of years cruising on a Bristol 32. This boat had hatches oriented only forward. My current boat is a Freedom 33. I am replacing the 4 hatches. The two on centerline on the cabintop I'm planning to replace with double opening hatches (probably Manship or possibly the Bomar Series 100 cast hatches). There are also 2 hatches towards the port side of the cabin top (which is crowned not flat but was built with flat areas for the hatches but slanting upward towards the centerline). One over the head and one over the galley. Currently they open to port (when open the opening is to port). I'm wondering if it would be better to have them open to starboard. Do you have any advice/opinion on this? I was also considering using the Bomar seabreeze offshore hatches for these 2 since they have the unique venting design. Any comments. Thanks in advance for your input. Regards, Alan

Hi Alan: Generally speaking, we orient our hatches for best air flow at anchor. You need somewhere for the air to enter and then go back out. Our experience is that the air likes to enter aft, through the companionway hatch (if there is a dodger fitted it works even better) and then exit through a forward hatch which opens facing aft. We usually orient the saloon hatches so they face forward.

Regarding hatch types, we favor the cast Bomars. They don't have the O-ring leak potential of all the other styles. From experience I can tell you that if they are properly dogged, they will not leak, even under direct wave impact. Steve

I have planned to get new cushions and mattress for our boat before casting off, but we are running out of time. Have you done upholstery projects in Latin America or Caribbean? If so what is availability of quality foams, and other materials? Are you satisfied with quality of workmanship? Can you recommend anyone in particular? Thank you in advance for any information or advice. - Gregory

Hi Gregory: I have no specific recommendations for the Caribbean for upholstery. However, there are cushion makers on many of the islands. As to foam quality, this is always a potential problem and needs to be researched carefully. There are major trade-offs between comfort, longevity, and cost.

The best bet is to find someone in the area with cushions made by a vendor you are considering--that have a year or more of service. This way you can see how the foam stands up and what the fabrics look like after some real world usage. Good luck - Steve

A SetSailor sent in an excellent idea for making velcro work for headliner panels:

I am designing a 40' sailboat, and have been reading Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. I wish to thank you for the wonderful ideas.

I have a solution to one of the problems you mentioned...You said that when you used Velcro to hold up panels sometimes the Velcro held so well to its partner it pulled off the piece that was glued to the surface.

If you shave off the "hooks" and "loops" around the edge of the pieces of Velcro (about 1/4" all around) then the "peal load" can't work on the edges, and the Velcro will stay on when you pull off the panel. If you have skimped on the size of your Velcro, you may need to use larger pieces.

(This assumes that the glue is the correct type for the substrate. Some glues, over time, just slide off.) - Joseph

We have an Ice Box (we are considering putting a cold plate or other cooling thingie in but the question remains the same). Has anyone come up with a handy way to utilize this unfriendly space? It is top loading, deep, and much longer than it is wide. I get very cranky trying to keep it together, get in there without a neck cramp and use the food before it goes bad. I was thinking there may be some plastic baskets that are tiered or stackable. Any ideas? Best, Carol

Hi Carol You've got a common problem, and the answer starts with the shape of the box (the top loader is most efficient in terms of limiting heat loss). What we've done (and seen on a few boats) is to use stacking containers sometimes with shelves. If you are lucky, you can do this with an array of plastic coated steel mesh containers, usually available in a Target type of store. The open mesh is important for heat transfer and allowing the stored items to breath. Tupperware makes a line of storage devices which allow for longer-term storage (we use them in the fridge on some things and they seem to help). We usually put the long term inventory, which we only need to get into once in a while, in the hardest to reach areas of the fridge. There is a lot more on this subject in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. Regards -Steve

Hi Steve, I have an ozone generator made by Quantum but I have been reluctant to leave it on for long periods because I understood that ozone would cause deterioration of rubber goods. I see that you leave it on the boat during lay up. Is it on constantly? How do you use it ? Thanks Mike B. s/v Spurwing

Yes - it is on constantly. I have heard both sides of the deteriorization story. But I don't think we have any rubber in our hoses (all plastic) - so far - five years - it has not been a problem for us. Steve

We have purchased a 1973 43' Gulfstar Trawler which is in need of interior refurbishing. We are interested in cork or bamboo products for flooring and wall paneling. Would these products be acceptable for the marine environment? Thank you- Kathleen and Rufus

Sounds like you have yourselves a project. Cork will work fine as long as it is well sealed. But there are lots of other materials which are inherently stable - and might be better - depending on how you intend to use the boat. As far as wall coverings, same issue - bamboo will work, but you have to be careful sealing it. There are many types of striated vinyls with a lovely texture that are impervious to the elements. We've had very good success with vinyl wall coverings for many years. Regards - Steve

I BOUGHT A YACHT WITH MOLD INSIDE ON MOST HULL SURFACES WHICH WE HAVE SANDBLASTED. I HAVE CHECKED MANY SOURCES FOR RECOMMENDATIONS. HAVE RECEIVED MANY FROM SPRAY BENZALCONIUM CHLORIDE TO GLACIC ACETIC ACID AND ALCOHOL TO PLAIN CHLORINE BLEACH SPRAY. DO YOU OR ANY ONE HAVE AND RECOMMENDATIONS OR SULUTIONS? FRED

Hi Fred: The best way to deal with mold is to avoid it in the first place. However, if you've already got it, that advice is not going to help. There are lots of mildewcides available. The thing you have to watch is that the residue from these do not create a bigger problem than the mold (health-wise). Some folks are allergic to these chemicals, and if that is the case, there is almost no way to get rid of the residue. In our own experience, we've always used a simple solution of bleach and water - and then rinsed several times to get rid of the bleach smell. Also, an ozone generator will eventually kill the mold, if you shut up the boat with it on for a couple of weeks. However, this does leave dead mold floating around - so the best thing (from our non-scientific viewpoint) is some form of wash down, followed by a good rinse, lots of wiping with clean rags/towels, and then the ozone generator. A dehumidifier will help dry things out afterwards. Let us know how the battle turns out. Steve

Greetings. Does your library of encyclopedic knowledge have any definitive source(s) for optimum, spatial ergonomics for the interiors of vessels? For instance, passageways 18" - 22" wide? Head & shower stall sizes...what's adequate (for basic duties and toweling off) yet still economic in size? In a "U" shaped galley is 36" between counters OK? Seating around a dinette...how much room should be allowed for each "sitter" and comfortable "elbow room"? I trust you get my drift as the list of examples could go on forever. I've seen your comments on headroom but very little on provisions for comfort, ease and safety whilst moving about and living on a vessel in a seaway. Hopefully you've covered this subject before, but if not, it might make a good topic for consideration.

I should add that I fully appreciate the functioning of a proper boat...not a floating condominium or "gin palace"!...And know the danger factor of being thrown about in overly generous living and/or poorly designed interior spaces. Further, I acknowledge that this topic is subject to personal preferences but believe there is, or should be a baseline to start with. Thank you for any information you can provide. Cheers, Richard

Hi Richard: There are no definitive answers! It all depends on many, many tradeoffs, including your own body size, resale considerations, where and how the boat is to be used, etc. There are some philosophical approaches you can work on - but after that, it is a question of looking at a lot of boats and trying to make sense of what is best for your situation. Our Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia has many drawings and photos of various interior designs on lots of different boats - with discussions of what works and why - but not hard and fast rules (or easy answers). Good luck - Steve Dashew

I was wondering if you could help me with information concerning Origo alcohol stoves. I use my boat for limited coastal cruising in the Channel Islands, CA. My boat is a Dreadnought 32 without a LPG system. Stove prices are comparable but for LPG I would spend $1,000 more for lockers, solenoids etc. I can't find any performance or convenience info on these non-pressurized alcohol systems. Can you advise me?

Hi Nathan: It has been 30+ years since we've been shipmates with alcohol. There are several disadvantages. First, these stoves give off a nauseating (to us!) smell. Second, there is the risk of the alcohol spilling and creating a fire (probably in the same risk category as propane gas leaks). Finally, alcohol is difficult and expensive in many areas. But for local cruising, if the odor doesn't bother you, it would probably work OK. My suggestion would be to find someone with an alcohol stove and see how it works/smells. Then you will know first hand. - Steve

I was wondering if you could help me with information concerning Origo alcohol stoves. I use my boat for limited coastal cruising in the Channel Islands, CA. My boat is a Dreadnought 32 without a LPG system. Stove prices are comparable but for LPG I would spend $1,000 more for lockers,solenoids etc. I can't find any performance or convenience info on these non-pressurized alcohol systems. Can you advise me? - Nathan

My suggestion would be to find someone with an alcohol stove and see how it works/smells. Then you will know first hand. - Steve

Greetings from the Florida Keys. Of all the great values one can find, your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia is the best. We have used your book as a wonderful resource to guide our steps and now are the proud, and deliriously happy owners of a 45' Columbia. An older boat, she is quite sound, needing only a lot of "elbow grease" and some electronics. We were fascinated by the application of ground walnut shells to teak saloon floors for a non-skid, good looking flooring (page 1034). Is there a supply source for the shells, or did you render them yourself? Thanks, Janine M.

Hi Janine: We get our walnut shells through Port Supply, the wholesale division of West Marine. I'll bet they are in the West Marine Catalog. We use the medium grade. - Steve

Love your book which we refer to regularly. We have a motorsailer with an electric fridge which is not very efficient in our hot Australian climate. We have to run the generator almost constantly. We are not big fans of gas because of the dangers associated with it. Electrolux make a dual electric/kerosene fridge which we are contemplating. Could you please share your thoughts on kerosene fridges? Many thanks, Sally Luttrell.

Hi Sally: We've seen several cruisers over the years who used kerosene systems and felt they worked well. The one issue I recall is that they did not work well when heeled. That problem may have been solved by now.

However, keep in mind that the compressor, whether kerosene, engine, or electrically powered is only one part of the system. To get good results you need to have efficient insulation, and the plumbing of the fridge system has to be done properly. Even the expansion valves, if not correctly adjusted, can substantially increase your running time. Good Luck - Steve Dashew

Hello, Because I am changing the interior of my wooden Van de Stadt Pacific sailing vessel I have to make several choices. Therefore I am happy with the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia because it is based on experience and that is what I need. It is my intention to install a hot water heating system and in the encyclopedia is mentioned a Teledyne system what would be a better system in comparison with Webasto, which I know well. Is it possible to send me an e-mail adress from Teledyne because I like to know more about the system.I was not succesful in finding Teledyne on the internet, and I am sure you can help me. Thank you very much in advance. Greetings, Paul

Hi Paul: Although we still have the Teledyne mentioned in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia, and it has been quite reliable so far, after using it for these years I think I would go back to Webasto next time. This is mainly because the Webasto looks easier to work on to me (does not have the computer) than the Teledyne. You can probably get more information on the Teledyne units from Sure Marine, in Seattle, Washington - 206 784 9903. Good Luck - Steve Dashew

Hi Wayne: Sounds like you have several different problems. Easy one first--if you are using too much water while motorsailing you are charging at too high a rate--reduce the voltage to an approriate level--which depends on battery type. For example, with a 12V system you would want to motorsail at around 14.4 volts. Re the Glacier Bay system, we are not great fans of the way they do business,and have had some QC problems with their gear in our boats--which is one of the reasons we went back to Grunert. However, once you get the system running it should be as efficient as any other system. Regards - Steve Dashew

Hi Martin: There are no short answers to this issue. It is, however, covered in detail in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. The one comment I will stress is that most boats that have AC do not use it enough to justify the space, complexity, and cost. It is better on the few nights a year it is required to go to a nice hotel--much cheaper in the long run for most situations. Steve

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I am getting ready to install a heat/air conditioning unit in my Sabre 42. I recently installed an Adler/Barbor 12 volt refrigeration unit with a water cooling option. I am wondering if I could use just one thru hull to supply both units. If I remember correctly, you used a manifold arrangement, with one thru hull, to supply water to several items on the Sundeer 64.

No problem - my guess is that a 3/4" fitting would do both with ease. But, you may already have an incoming raw water fitting that you can use, instead of adding one. Perhaps something for the galley sink, a deck wash pump, or the heads?

On Beowulf we run everything off a single 2" (50mm) through hull - and on the odd occasion have the 170hp Yanmar propulsion engine, a genset, and a watermaker all going at once. The "experts" say it cannot be done, but we've been doing this for years. Good Luck - Steve

Hallo Linda and Steve: My name is Barbara. My family, it mins my husband and nine years old son, plan to spend a large part of ours lifes on yacht. So our new home is being built and we have some questions how to make living on yacht more comfortable. I bought your book but I did not find few answers:for example, if is it a good idea to make leather seats, what fibres are the best on beds. I will be very greatfull if you help me. Barbara from Poland

Hi Barbara: You will find a large section in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia on upholstery and cushions. Regarding leather, if it is properly treated and well ventilated, it works quite well. We've used it on some of our boats. But you need good ventilation, or it will tend to mildew. As for bunk cushions, our preference is for a waterproof vinyl of some sort, so that if there are any leaks you have better chance of keeping the foam mattresses dry. Good Luck - Steve Dashew

Hi Steve (and Linda), Just read your dryer update, that's too bad it isn't working well. Have you ever considered using a household gas fired dryer, converted to propane, with a 110 VAC motor and vented? I am considering this route, but have yet to find anyone with firsthand knowledge. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Bill K. from the USA

Hi Bill: Its a very interesting concept and we have a friend who has taken this approach (but is not yet launched). Our main concern is with the propane and the risks this entails. Perhaps in the right situation, with good venting, and a shut off valve used the same way as a stove. But, overall, we've been just a little skittish about the second source of propane risk. If you try this approach, let us know how it works. Steve Dashew

My husband and I read articles on your site regularly. We have a 41-foot sailboat on a lake in New Mexico. Our plan is to retire in 3 years to go cruising. We have done extensive work on the boat to get her ready. I have looked everywhere for a deep, somewhat narrow double sink for the galley. I have seen these sinks on bareboat charter boats but have not been able to locate any. I would greatly appreciate any help you could give me. Thank you. Linda M

Hi Linda: 41' on a New Mexico lake! That sounds interesting. Re: deep sink, Scanvik makes several models. Try 800 535 6009 or 407 567 2877. Good luck with your plans. Steve Dashew

I read in PS May issue that your boat has a 24 volt system. Please let me know where one can easily buy 24 volt light blubs and fixtures. I'm having poor luck here in Northern Cal finding a source. Also, any good ideas for the best way to go for an interior heating system. Propane, diesel, etc. and best btus? Thanks, Mike

Hi Mike: We get most of our 24V bulbs from Lewis Marine in Fort Lauderdale. They are wholesale only, but most chandlers have their catalogs and can order from them. Also, check with some of the lighting fixture supplier. Most offer 24 as well as 12 V bulbs. If you are getting halogen bulbs it is best to use 28V. These last longer, and are no as subjective to burning out when the charger is on and voltage is up. On heat, we've always used diesel fired boilers - which take care of our washing water and heating the boat. I like the Webasto units the best. The best vendor for this stuff is Jim Shimke at Sure Marine in Seattle. Regards - Steve

Dear Steve and Linda- I read with great interest your article about vacuum packing food and clothes. (To read the article, click here.) We are planning on cruising the Caribbean in a few years, and I have a few questions if you don't mind.

When you said that you vacuum packed cereals, how did you do that without crushing the cereal to crumbs? (Did you buy any of the Tillia hard storage containers, or use glass mason jars?) How did you vacuum pack flour into bags, without the flour being sucked into the machine?

Finally, how in the world do you get jackets into the little bags for the food/fresh saver? I can see using the bags sold to be compressed by a vacuum cleaner, as they are quite large, but haven't had much real success with them keeping their seal--but I may have had a bad batch.

Hi Beth: The cereals we vacuum packed - Grape Nuts, oatmeal, Familia, were not bothered by the pressure. Only problem was keeping the bits from clogging the seal area. This was most easily done by leaving the cereal in its original bag, and cutting a small hole at the end of the original packaging to get the air out (this hole was placed away from the seal area).

For clothing we used the largest size vacuum bags. We also used the roll up type bags which allow you to roll the clothes while expelling air (sold in most luggage shops now).

Regarding the sealing itself, we have found that this has to be done carefully, and that you need to allow the sealer to cool down a bit between cycles. I would say we have on average an 80% success rate; i.e. we have to redo about 20% of the seals. Steve

What can you tell me about sailboat cushion fabrics? We are building a 50-foot sailboat, and would like to have the most up to date info. Thanks, Thomas

That's a huge question. The basic logic of how to choose is covered in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. The key is to be realistic about the usage. For example, if you are cruising in the tropics, or with small children, light colors don't make sense (in the tropics there is a problem with body/suntan oil and the kids, well, you can imagine, between magic markers and hot chocolate!).

The other issue is the design of the upholstery. Certain approaches work better over long periods, as the cushions are used and the fabric begins to stretch. The key is to work with an upholsterer who understands the type of usage you are talking about - and can advise you on the relative merits of different fabrics.

We love your book! Can you tell me more about the deadbolts you use to lock the hatch boards down? We have a Crealock 37 Yawl and would like to install these on our boat also. We have watched the video many, many times and learned so much. Thanks, D and M

Hi D and M:There are several approaches to locking floor boards. One is to use simple "door buttons" which are still made by a number of companies. This is a simple and effective method, but the plastic locks do sit up above floor level (we used these years ago on Intermezzo). Another approach is to take a standard door lock set, mount it below the floorboard, and use the tongue of the lockset to engage the edge of the cabin sole. This mechanism is operated with what in effect is a removable door handle. You'll see details of both approaches in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia.

For sliding hatches and companionway slides we usually fit a simple barrel bolt (made of brass or stainless) to lock these from the inside. This is particularly important when heading offshore as heavy seas will work your companionway hatch open.

We are about 1/3 of the way through a refit of our Westsail 42 "Heartland" and are now beginning to think about what type of material to use on the dinette and saloon cushions. Ironically we have come across a quantity of leather for a great price but are reluctant to buy. Can you shed any light on how leather would hold up to the marine envirnoment? Thank Your Time, John & Deanna

Hi John and Deanna: Leather works great if you have the right finish. Harder wears better and copes with body oil and sun tan lotion better than the softer finishes. However, you will find the labor costs of working with leather are typically alot higher than other materials. There are a lot of synthetics out, like "Doeskin" which have a leather like feel, are easier to work with, and better on maintenance - but there is no way to replace the dead cow smell other than the real thing! Good Luck - Steve

Steve: Hi, We are one of those sailors who bought one of these machines and found out the not immediately apparent serious limitation of these machines: There is high volume of water consumption not for washing but to accomplish the condensation: there is a constant stream of cold water is piped to cool the drum.

And there is another big problem: the temperature of the cooling water. In the tropics the 85+F water temp may not accomplish the condensation at all?! We decided to forgo the installation all together and go to manual machines with clothes lines...John

Hi John: Our experience is the same. However, in colder climates condensing drier seems to work OK (and there is typically lots of water available then. In the tropics we also use clotheslines outside! Regards-Steve

Hi Linda and Steve: I am enjoying your articles about maintaining Beowulf, and was interested in the piece on your washing machine.

My wife is happy enough to wash by hand, but would like a spin dryer or similar.

Hi Chris: Using a drier without a washer to first spin the water out of the clothes is tough. As far as we know, they are only made for slow speed, so there is no way to get the clothes dry first, unless you use a hand ringer after the hand washing.

Space-wise, the dryers typically take exactly the same space as the washer. If you have to choose one, our preference is for the washer, with a high speed spinner, which makes drying outside or inside much, much faster.

The best compromise we've found so far is the Splendide, which we mentioned previously. This has a good washer, excellent spinning speed, and an acceptable drier all in one. The drier, however, is not nearly as fast as what we are all used to at home, and we typically only use it when there is no other choice. Regards-Steve

Steve, I've got a question about the combination clothes washer/dryer you show in the Beowulf video. Is it vented or not? And how happy are you with its performance? Would you recommend it? Thanks, Kyle, Colorado Springs, CO

Hi Kyle: The washer/drier is made by Splendide in Italy. We bought it through West Marine. It has stood the test of time - 28,000 miles - and we are just now replacing it.

It is vented, but dries very slowly, with only a few items in it at a time. However, we're told that the new models are much better at drying (they spin at 1100 rpm compared to ours at 5/600).

We've been searching for a replacement and have decided to go back with the same company.

For a combo unit which runs on 110/120V, it is the only game in town we've found. Regards-Steve

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