Seamanship Q & A

Hello, I was hoping to get your opinion on the S2 9.2 center cockpit...My plan is to liveaboard the boat in the Seattle and/or Portland areas, cruise the Sound, and at the maximum cruise up and down the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of North America and cross the Atlantic to Bermuda and back. All this sailing will be done "in season" - I have no intention of tackling the North Pacific in the middle of winter, for instance. My sailing skills are minimal so I don't really want to get in over my head when it comes to waterline/size...figured the 30' S2 with its aft stateroom and center cockpit would be a good compromise...? Thanks...

Hi There: I am not familiar with the S2 line. My suggestion re sailing and boat handling skills would be to get yourself involved in some racing, preferably in small centerboarders. One season's racing will be worth years of messing around in the larger keel boat, in terms of learning curve. Regards - Steve

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Hi Steve- I read a question in the Q&A section of cruising central. It was the one where you said that getting into sailing dinghies for a summer would be comparable to sailing a larger boat for a few years. I already know how to sail and I sailed a dinghy as a youngster. Now I'd like to get into cruising 30-40 footers long distances. Would dinghy racing also benefit me as far as learning and experience in sailing? There are many dinghy fleets here in San Diego that I could readily join. I'm a 50-year-old guy and I'd like to become a capable cruiser before I'm too old. Thank you very very much for your valued guidance. Kevin

Hi Kevin: Sounds like you are on the right track. And yes, racing would help very much with the learning curve. You find out right away what works and what doesn't! The other key ingredient is learning about weather - which is not as hard these days as some think. Understanding weather patterns and precursors affects you not only at seas, but at anchor (and on land) as well. Nothing else will have as much positive impact on your cruising as having a feel for the elements. Good Luck - Steve

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Aloha Folks: I am, like too many new cruisers, spending money adding things I MIGHT need...I am thinking about prep for the day at sea when not smart enough to avoid heavy weather, and I need a drogue.

AVALON, TPI hull #5 has at the stern port and starb an open chalk on the rail thru which in a tie up to a dock leads fair to the cleat mounted thwartship on the stern.

I am wondering how to secure drogue lines considering their strain and the stern line cleat set at right angles to the pull of the drogue line.

What would you say to leading the drogue bridle thru the hole between the cleat "feet", then a single turn around a heavy winch then secured to the midship cleat on the rail? The winch turn to facilitate retrieval, the stern cleat to provide a fairlead, and the midship cleat to provide a fair securing place.

Thanks, Scott

Hi Scott: I don't trust my memory of the details on the back end of your boat. But for general principles consider the following: How the drogue is attached depends on the loads, chafe, and how long it is to be used.

For something like a Jordan Series drogue, you will need to have hard spots, reenforcements to spread the load, usually in the form of pad eyes on the corners of the transom.

Galerider type devices have much lower loads.

Sharp turns around corners of cleats, chocks, etc. are prone to chafe. Chafe can be reduced by use of high modulus lines which don't stretch. Stretch equals movement which causes chafe.There are also minimum radii issues to be considered and these vary with rode construction and diameter.

Using the feet of the cleat as a turning block, taking thr rode around this and to a winch is probably not a good idea. The 90 degree turn substantially increases the loads (there's a diagram on this in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia). I don't recall the reinforcement under the cleat which TPI used, but in general, this is not a good idea if we're dealing with really high loads.

When thinking about leads keep in mind that the device being dragged is going to be swinging back and forth in angle as the boat changes course relative to the position of the drogue. So the attachment points on the hull need to allow for this. A negative example would be the lead of a port quarter chock with the boat turning to starboard. The port rode would then rub on the corner of the transom.

Good luck with whatever you do. - Steve

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I read your articles about drogues etc. and would ask you, (being newly baked at sea things), how does one determine the size of a drogue or sea-parachute ancher? I hve a 36 foot Malo 50 with 8 tons laden weight. Sincerely, Richard Dixon, Copenhagen

Hi Richard: A very tricky question, to which there is no really satisfactory source. Best thing to do is to decide whose gear you want to carry, and then talk with both the supplier and users of the gear (in boats that have comparable design characteristics to your own). Regards - Steve Dashew

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Hi, I own a Voyage 430 catamaran, I need an instructional DVD on how to sail a large cat. Can you help? Thank you,
Keith

Hi Keith: I can't point you to anything specific to cats, but the sail trim issues are much the same between mono and multi-hulls. There are differences in anchoring techniques, and of course handling under power since you've got twin engines. Regards, Steve Dashew

PS - For heavy weather tactics you might want to look at our Surviving the Storm which has a detailed chapter on multihull tactics.

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I have enjoyed your site very much for a long time. Into the Light (by Dave & Jaja Martin) has been "the book" for me. Both have been a major help in turning me from dreamer to setting the goals and schedules to make it come true. An amazing content of worthwhile reading from all authors.

My wife and I are contemplating a charter from Puerto Vallarta to Cabo San Lucas April 15-21 and the Captain has been straightforward in saying it will be an upwind and uncomfortable passage. He adds that it is only 300 miles. He has now departed Natal and will be out of touch for a time. We are left wondering about how long the actual passage might be. We are willing to endure a bash for a few days but wish to be up for enjoying Cabo to the fullest also. As we don't personally know anyone to ask I thought maybe SetSail could help. Any advice or even general opinions will be greatly appreciated. Till my next order, Thanks, Everett

Assuming it is a beat all the way, where you live aboard the boat will have a big impact on your comfort. The closer you are to the center of the boat, and the lower down in the hull, the less motion you will feel.

Also, the course taken can have a big impact. Sometimes, especially if conditions are light when you start, it can make sense to run due north along the coast, and then hop across to Cabo when the you have a more favorable angle. Good Luck - Steve

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I am supporting a friend on his sailing trip though the Pacific Ocean. He is trying to find a way from Tuamotu Islands to Hawaii. Actually he planned to go via Marquesas Islands, however, easterly winds (in gusts up to 45 knots) still make it impossible to sail this route. I fea, the only way to reach Hawaii is to go the long way right north.

I have been told that you have some experience in travelling to Hawaii "the wrong way" - against trade winds. Is there a possibility to get some usefull information from you? Maybe he could call you directly via his satellite phone?

Thanks in advance for your reply. Manfed Ziegler

Suggest he contact Bob McDavitt (mcdavitt@metservice.com) for routing info. Costs are low and he is very good. Regards - Steve Dashew

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Do you have a good book on singlehanding? Singlehanding a catamaran? I have my bareboat certificate, recognize that there is much I must learn before undertaking a long solo cruise, am inclined to get a cat. And go from Med across Atlantic, through Panama Canal, up Mexico coast, anchor somewhere for some months. Please advise. Thank you, Jeff P

Hi Jeff: Singlehanding is a controversial subject, as it is impossible for a singlehander to stand proper watches. That said, unless you have a very large multihull, one which has enough size to resist capsize, I would suggest a monohull, which will be faster than any cruising cat, and give you far more factor of safety in heavy weather.

None of our books address singlehanding on its own, but all of their information applies as much to singlehanding as to cruising with a partner or crew. Good Luck with your plans--Steve

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Hi: Some time ago, I purchased your book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. Recently I have been searching in it for a reference for heaving to or laying to. I can find none. Here is my problem: I am having difficulty in getting my 48 ft Mayflower ketch to heave to or lay to the wind. I tried placing the headsail to windward, the main amidship, and the rudder hard to leeward. It does not work. I have placed the main to windward, the mizzen amidships, and the rudder hard to leeward. This causes the boat to head about 120° apparent. Placing the full mizzen amid ship with about a yard of main amidship results in movement from about 0° to 90°. The movement without the main is slightly more violent. I would appreciate any ideas that you could give me on how to solve this problem in all kinds of weather, but of course, heavy weather is the condition that bothers me the most. Thank you, John.

Hi John: The combination required to heave to varies with wind velocity and sea state--for any given vessel. So what works in one set of conditions will have to probably be modified for a different situation.

The principle is to get the fore and aft sails to offset each other, hopefully so that the boat maintains a constant angle to the most dangerous (or uncomfortable) seas, at as close an angle as possible (closer is usually safer and/or more comfortable).

If your boat will create a slick to weather, it sometimes helps to get the angle so that the boat drifts dead downwind of the slick. In theory the slick reduces the tendency of the waves to break (but we have no direct experience with this ourselves).

It is hard to give you the specifics of what to do on your boat without being on board, or knowing more details. However, if she is ketch rigged, as a guess I would say that some combination of staysail and mizzen might work. Or perhaps mizzen and a small jib.

I would aim for a 50 to 60-degree angle to the waves/wind as a start. Experiment in moderate conditions first. From your description, it sounds like a neutral helm or even some helm to weather might help. Also, I would try it without the main, or only use the main in lighter winds.

As to a reference, our book Surviving the Storm has a chapter with lots of drawings and images on the subject of heaving to. Good luck - Steve

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I currently have a six man Switlick offshore life raft. My boat is in West Palm Beach Florida and I would like to find a reliable inspection station to inspect and service my life raft in preparation for an offshore passage. Can you recommend any stations that do this in that area?

Best thing to do is to call Switlick and ask who they recommend. There will be somebody in your area who has been certified by the Switlick folks. Also, it is a good idea to have a look at your raft when it is repacked, see what it looks like when it is blown up, check what is inside, etc. Steve

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Steve have you ever used a masthead tv camera with pan and tilt to con the boat through coral heads, etc. Thanks Jerry, Venice, CA

Hi Jerry--this is an interesting concept, and we've thought about it for making videos. However, the complexity of the equipment, and weight aloft (the cable is really heavy), plus the fact that you need to be on deck keeping an eye out and trying to interpret shadows under water--I think gives this a low potential for really working. Steve

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Hi Steve, Regarding heavy weather sailing, I would appreciate your input regarding my boat. I have a 20-meter aluminum cutter-rigged sloop. The staysail is on a self-tacking track and I have a fin keel with a small wing. How would you best heave to with this set up? So far I've been able to manage with just the staysail in bad conditions but think it's time that I learn other options. Thanks, Alan "Evolution"

Hi Alan: It is impossible to predict the right combination without being on the boat and seeing how she behaves. However, the basic principle is to have the main (or trysail) and some form of headsail fighting each other. My guess is with just the staysail set forward you would need a deeply reefed mainsail to balance against it. Position of the main on its traveler will also have an impact on how things work. And, of course, all this varies with sea state and wind strength! There is a pretty good section on heaving to in Surviving the Storm. Bottom line--experiment in moderate conditions to find the right combination. Regards--Steve PS-when you find what works drops us a line--we'd love to have some feedback.

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Dear Dashews, Got your book. great reading. But it lacks one thing: a glossary. I suspect some terms are US conventions and not European (e.g. dink). What is meant by draft (in respect of sails) for example. Best Wishes, Malcolm S

Hi Macolm: Sorry about that! Draft is the depth of the sail, i.e. the thickness of the airfoil (on the main this would be measured perpendicular to the boom). Regards--Steve

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Dear SetSail, Can you recommend a good "cruise and learn" course that my husband and I could take with our two children, ages 12 and 8, this summer? We live in Massachusetts, but were thinking of exploring a new area like the Pacific NW. However, we are open to any area. Thank you. Sincerely, Andrea

Hi Andrea: The best cruising courses are those that take you offshore for a period of time. There are a number of people that do this. One couple are John and Amanda Neal, on their Halberg Rassy 46. You can get more information on their school at www.mahina.com.

Another approach would be to visit the US Sailing website, where they have a whole slew of sailing schools listed (http://www.ussailing.org) Good Luck--Steve

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I am currently reading your book entitled Surviving the Storm and want you to know I think it is one of the most comprehensive books I've read thus far--more like a textbook than the typical books on rough weather sailing. It's possible that I may be asking you something you're not able to answer. If so, accept my apologies for the inconvenience, but I thought you may be able to help me on finding a book on another related subject. I am looking for any book that discusses the differences in sailing techniques for schooners versus sloops. I have a fair amount of experience both in racing and cruising sloops but don't know anyone knowledgeable about schooners. I just sold my boat (sloop) and am toying with the idea of possibly buying a schooner if I can find one in my price range. I am nearing 70 years old and would like to find a boat that has a normal amount of sails but would be less strenuous on my tired muscles. (And beside, I always liked the looks of a schooner over simple sloops or ketches.) I already have a zillion books on sailing etc. but have not been able to find any about sailing schooners. If you can give me any info about this I would appreciate it.

Hi Fred: If you like the way a schooner looks, great! But they are a lot of work, way more than a single sticker or proper ketch rig--for a given amount of miles per day. That said, I'd contact Chris Flavell at Sea Ocean Book Berth in Seattle, WA (206-675-9020). Chris is a repository for all sorts of used books and will have lots of schooner titles I'll bet. Of particular interest maybe one or two of Eric Tabarly's books from the 70s or so in which he discusses in detail the sailing of one of his racing schooners--modern version. Good Reading!

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Dear Dashews: I saw your ad for the Beowulf in Latitude 38. I fell in love. Can't afford it quite yet but am vigorously trying. Been a fond admirer of your work since seeing one of your designs tied up in Emeryville. The couple had been cruising for almost a year. I would like to become an expert sailor. Currently I have only limited experience in the SF bay and Caribbean. Is there a route of training you recommend, or is there a school you might suggest? Of course these would be in addition to your books which I will purchase. Your ideas would be most appreciated. Best regards, Eric.

Hi Eric: Thanks for the kind words. The current issue (August 15, 1999) of Practical Sailor has a readers' evaluation of various sailing schools around the country. And for learning offshore skills I'd recommend John and Amanda Neal aboard their Mahina Tiare (sailing@mahina.com). Good luck with your plans, Steve Dashew

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Greetings, I have purchased two of your books, with CDs, and they are excellent. I refer to them regularly to solve specific problems and for general learning (random open and read).

One area I want more information on, and cannot find in either of the books (Surviving and Offshore) is motorsailing. In addition to your two books, I have done quite a bit of research on the web, looked for magazine articles (current and archive), etc., and still cannot find any information. All I can find is the occasional reference to motorsailing in some trip logs.

I am interested in the theory and practice of motorsailing, and the pros and cons, cautions (re: sails, motor) etc. Can you provide this information and/or refer me to a qualified source of information on this.

By the way, another item I couldn't find in your books was on the matter of what gear/or neutral to leave the engine in when sailing (I recently switch from a folding to three-blade fixed prop). Thanks, Howard

Hi Howard: Regarding motorsailing, there is a chapter in Surviving the Storm on it as a storm tactic, and our new book, Practical Seamanship (due out next spring) also has a chapter on the subject.

The question of fixing the prop or letting it free wheel has been debated for years. There are two aspects.

First the gearbox. If the box is lubricated with an oil bath (all mechanical trannys) it can free wheel. For hydraulic boxes it depends on the design. Some, like the old Borg Warners, are OK as long as the engine is started every hour or so to push some hydraulic oil through the system. However, the best bet is to check with the trannt supplier.

The other issue is drag. There are arguments on both sides. We come down on the side of feeling a fixed prop is less drag than one which rotates. This is a well established fact with power planes, and I don't see why the same would not apply to boats. Regards--Steve Dashew

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Please tell me the maximum feet of trimaran a single sailor can handle. Thanks.