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FPB 83

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Capsize Resistance

The ultimate safety test for any vessel bound offshore is how well it resists capsize. Many factors enter into this equation, most of which we've already discussed. The best bet is to avoid the weather risks entirely. Here, speed is of paramount importance. Speed - and the ability to maintain it in adverse sea states - gives us huge advantage in staying away from dangerous conditions.

We've already covered speed and staying power. But we also need to think about what happens if we make a mistake with our weather routing, or the boat is somehow disabled, as unlikely as this may be. If we're caught in dangerous conditions, how the boat behaves in breaking seas means the difference between an experience we'd rather not repeat and something far more serious.

We've covered this topic in great detail in the preceding section. What we'd like to do now is show you a series of disturbing images of this new design heeled as if it had been caught broadside by a breaking sea. We'll then take you through what a roll over might look like.

As we discussed previously, we design so that when the boat reaches a certain angle of heel, it begins to skid to leeward, dissipating wave energy as it goes. This first series of images show the boat as she would float if knocked down to a 45-degree angle (all of the following images are of the boat at moderate cruising displacement).

In the first image (below) you can see that very little of the deck edge has been submerged. This is important, as the deck edge provides a lot of skid resistance - so the less of it that is buried, the safer we'll be.

Look at the hull from the other side. All of the port side foils - stabilizer, skeg, and rudder - are above the waterline. The keel, at this angle, is starting to lose its grip. The leeward stabilizer is actually doing more work since it is vertical, but it is small enough (just 12 square feet) that it will not have a huge impact.
Here is a close up of the foils.
Looking now from the stern, notice how little of the transom is immersed...
...and even less of the bow is immersed. In fact, the forward section of the hull - from about the forward watertight bulkhead to the bow - is floating clear.

Now go back and look at the fins. Visualize how they provide resistance against the boat moving with the wave - the keel (amidships), the starboard stabilizer (a little aft of amidships), and (at the aft end) the skeg and rudder. The center of this resistance is well aft. In comparison, the forward half of the hull has a tiny amount of resistance. The result is that if a wave impacts along the entire hull, the forward half will slip more than the stern, pivoting the hull so the bow leads the stern down the wave as it is pushed by the breaking wave. This tendency is further helped by the way the bow and stern float. The forward part of the bow is actually free of the water, while the stern corner is slightly immersed.

This angle away from parallel with the wave crest is desirable from many perspectives. First, the more in line with the wave motion the hull is aligned, the more resistance to capsize it has (there is far more stability fore and aft than athwartships). Next, there is no gear forward to be damaged by wave action. Both our dinghies reside at the stern - the more bow down the wave we face, the more the dinks are protected by the house structure.

We don't like dwelling on these problems, and certainly do not enjoy imagining what this would be like if we were aboard. But by studying these images carefully, and fine tuning the design to minimize risks as much as possible, we know we'll be a lot more comfortable mentally on all of our passages.

It is worth repeating that a key ingredient in avoiding capsize on a breaking sea is the ability of the boat to skid with the crest (as opposed to being locked in place by the hull and/or fins).

Now let's make things more interesting. We doubt we'll ever heel past the 45-degree point shown above. But just in case, let's take a look at how the boat floats when heeled at 90 degrees. At this angle we still have a lot of stability trying to bring us back upright.

Here's a view from the wave impact side. Notice how all of the fins except for the single starboard stabilizer are now clear of the water.

From the other side we can see that the deck edge is now well immersed, while the edge of the house is barely touching the water. There is a significant amount of drag in that deck edge, but overall the boat is a lot more slippery at this attitude (with fins almost totally free) than is the case at 45 degrees of heel where some of the fins are still working.

Of particular interest is the floatation level of hatches, dinghies, and the companionway door into the saloon. Note that except for the leeward coamings and the vent cowls attached thereto (which have closure plates operable from inside the boat) the rest of the gear and openings are well above the floatation waterline.

Of equal interest is the flotation plane of the bow and stern. The stern is still significantly more immersed than the bow, and given the fact that the center of resistance of the deck edge and house are aft of amidships, we expect that the hull would still maintain a favorable bias of bow down the wave.

Our best guess is that unless we messed up with a truly horrendous breaking wave - a maximum case of operator error coinciding with being at the wrong place at the wrong time - we're not likely to ever see more than a 90-degree heel angle (we'd be a lot happier with a maximum of 20-degree heel too!). The odds of being totally upset, to the point of vanishing stability, we think are minuscule. Still, we like to plan for the worst. Towards that end we study what the boat looks like in a fully capsized condition. In the next series of images we've got the boat at a 135-degree flotation plane.

Let's get the worst of this over with at the beginning. We've seen photos of fishing boats in this attitude, before they went down. It is enough to send the shivers down anyone's spine. Yet we want to know that we can capsize to this position, and with a little luck come back upright with the boat still watertight.

The first concern we have is with the engine room vents. You will recall that these are located in the breakwaters at the aft end of the deck. Take a close look at the submerged corner of the hull, and then follow the waterline up the transom. Notice how the top edge of the breakwater, closest to the centerline (to the right of the image) is just barely submerged. The down pipe for the air vents runs deep down into the engine room, towards the hull bottom, and in this heel angle is many feet above the flotation plane. Bottom line, we would not expect any more than a couple of buckets of sea water in the engine room (and the vents are sealable in bad weather).

Another question is the depth of submergence for the door into the saloon and deck hatches. The deeper they sit, the more hydrostatic pressure they are going to feel. You can see that the water tight door into the saloon at this angle has a maximum depth of three to four feet (900 to 1200mm). That's a minimal amount of hydrostatic pressure. The depth of the deck hatches is even less.

Checking the bow/stern trim relationship again we still have more resistance aft than forward, especially when you consider the twin wing masts, which are now acting as huge daggerboards. So we would expect that the bow would still be preceding the stern down the face of the wave.

In spite of all the preceding images and copy you've just read, we do not dwell on these issues when we're cruising. We make them the bottom line in our approach to yacht design, so that we don't have to be concerned when we're offshore.

After writing and reviewing this section the two us began to compare (again) the heavy weather capabilities of this design and that of Beowulf and Sundeer. We think the Unsailboat will be a lot easier to handle - no sails to change, trim, or worry about. Slow speed steering characteristics, while heading into breaking seas, should be substantially better. Off the wind, running with the waves, our control will be at the very least probably better than Sundeer, and equal to or maybe a hair less than Beowulf. And in a capsize scenario, we think the new design will do a lot better. Of course, we've done everything possible to give us the tools to avoid capsize risks in the first place.

In closing we'd like to ask you to keep in mind that dangerous weather is rare. If you practice good seamanship, stay ahead on maintenance, and take care in choosing your passage weather, the odds are minimal of hitting condition that could cause real problems. In all of our cruising to date, we've been exposed to less than 24 hours of weather that could potentially pose a danger to this boat if it were disabled or mishandled. We like these odds a lot more than what we face coming back from the movie on a Saturday night and worrying about drunk drivers.

For related info, see Surviving the Storm pages 608-621 (Design Factors), and pages 628-631 (Powerboat Design). Also see Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia pages 407-421 (Cruising Design).

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