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March 2, 2008 - Seal's Antarctic Expedition: Blaiklock Island
by
Kate Laird
We lie quietly in Bigoudan Fjord, triangulated with anchor at bow and two long lines astern, attached to rocks on Blaiklock Island, half a day's motoring directly into a headwind from our last stop off Adelaide island. There is some controversy about wind speed: 20 knots or somewhat less. The anemometer seen from the wheel outside shows a few knots more than the one inside the cabin. Our skipper says this is to keep those outside happy and feeling adventurous.
The wind has cleared most ice from the sea today. Floating ice comes in categories: icebergs, bergy bits, growlers, and brash. It is all pure white except occasionally we see imbedded black rocks or solidly transparent "diamond ice" compressed by immense glacial pressure. The shore is more or less continuously lined with ice cliffs, either the calving ends of glaciers or between them the snow skirts of steep mountain faces. Either way it comes in compressed layers showing thousands of years of snowfall history.
But here the beach and much of the land is clear of snow. We all go ashore and climb around to photograph adelie penguins and weddell seals. The penguins are young, almost adults, hanging around waiting to molt away their fluffy juvenile feathers so they can set out to sea in their swimming suits. We can - and do - watch them for hours on end while they stand on pink feet, preen and waddle about, sometimes setting off in single file procession to a new spot.
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| Sheila, Ron, and Roger in the dinghy. |
Skuas dive bomb other skuas' chicks, now as large as the adults (but flightless). Apparently they are cannibalistic when they get the chance.
The day started overcast, gradually cleared, and ends with a spectacular sunset over distant white mountains framed on either side by closer ones. (posted by guest Roger)
For more about Seal see http://www.expeditionsail.com.
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