March 5, 2008 - Stonington/Lagoon Island: A Long Night Fending off Icebergs
by Kate Laird

Today began yesterday.

Our anchorage at Stonington was a compromise because the huge ice shelf that had provided an essential barrier no longer exists. This has become a recurring observance in our voyage.

We were barely sheltered as a result and vulnerable to wind shifts. Once again, we set a two-hour watch schedule, but before Roger and Sheila had completed their ten to midnight shift, things rapidly started to change.

Wind and tide were now pushing some huge bergy bits (larger than a car) our way, along with considerable amounts of brash (small scraps of ice and chunks a meter-plus in size) that proceeded to surround the boat.

Through the thick wet snow that was falling, our bright spot light illuminated the scene in flashes as we monitored the movement of the ice. The thudding of the ice along the hull was quite disconcerting for those below.

Some big pieces were moving inexorably our way so the "three men in a boat" - Hamish, Tony and Ron - jumped into the dinghy and basically became a tug boat. Pushing against the bergs, they gradually got some momentum going, and it was surprising - and a relief - to see how successful they were at redirecting them.

Those of us on SEAL fended off the small pieces (some roughly half the size of the boat and heavier ... ed.) with oars and at one point a curious crabeater seal, perhaps attracted by the light, swam around the stern. It was a beautiful sea-green shape in the water, obviously in its element, day or night.

Dawn began to slowly delineate the sea and surrounding mountains and the great wall of ice that ran for miles and miles along the coast.

Seal in brash ice last season.

The brash was now thick (similar to the picture above) but the big bergs were gone. Hamish jokingly called this our "Shackleton Experience." It was enough for us! Needless to say, we got an early start to the day as we slowly motored out to sea.

Tonight, after a sail through 30-50 knot winds and a great upwind leg, we are again snugly anchored at Lagoon Island. It is the first time we have retraced our steps.

Naps followed lunch followed by dinner - G&T's chilled with ice chipped off a bergy bit for an aperitif, then our first feast off our second lamb. In spite of the naps, we are all off to bed to catch up on lost sleep.

Tonight we shall fall asleep to the now-familiar grunts, belches and bellows of the elephant seals. (posted by guest Pam)

For more about Seal see http://www.expeditionsail.com.