March 9, 2008 - Pitt Islands: Topping off the Tanks with Glacial Water
by Kate Laird

Fresh water. Lots of it, filling our somewhat depleted tanks from the glacier that sounds like a rushing mountain stream. We have repositioned the boat, stern in to this high wall of ice, and a yellow hose runs from a small crevice of water, down the snow slope, and up into the water filler pipe on the boat. This the is the brilliance of the physics of siphoning at work. To celebrate this replenishment, we have all showered and done laundry with impunity and all the taps are flowing with fresh not salt water for the time being. Such luxury.

Some sun and blue skies and mountain vistas reappearing have been a welcome sight, and as we are staying put for tonight, it is a lovely day to explore the islands and to catch up on lost sleep.

We are anchored in the Pitt Islands, again a place like no other we have been. The water is a stunning turquoise blue and clear to depths of twenty feet or so, revealing a bottom with lots of sea life. It would be a wonderful place to snorkel. Evidence of the life in the sea can be found on land - bits of sea urchin, star fish and piles of limpet shells that feed the local birds, skuas, blue eyed shags and kelp gulls. The skuas are curious but not agressive here. The nests we've seen are empty and the chicks are gone, which makes for much more relaxed exploring. A toot around in the zodiac takes us to one of the outer islands in the group where there a few dozy fur seals and the last few remaining Adelie penguins finishing their molt before heading out to sea.

This must be a huge colony in peak season as the rocks and slopes all around are pink with krill filled guano, making them slippery to walk on. We have a good cleaning of boots in the sea before we get back on the boat and always step into a disinfectant boot wash on board to stop the spread of contaminants from place to place.

Once again, we wish we had a geologist on board. The rocks here are largely gray and essentially smooth from the recently retreated glacier. There are lots of erratics and other curious extrusions. The glaciers are equally curious. Why is there an island with half of it covered with a hundred feet of ice and the rest of it bare?

We find some interesting skeletal remains, a perfect penguin skull, a flat seal flipper bone, and in among the rocks is an old wooden oar, likely from a whaling ship, as the handle is much heavier than those made today. We also find some plastic debris which raises concerns that the Antarctic Convergence is diminishing, allowing flotsam from other oceans into the Antarctic.

The barometer is dropping down to 976 mb as a new low comes through during dinner. We are having lamb curry, the second to last meal from the original two lambs we started with. Kate has made fresh naan and Hamish the accompanying dal bat. Delicious. The wind is rising, but we are snugly attached with lines ashore.

We are now beginning to plan our final few days before we head out across the Drake. The long term GRIBS (weather forecasts) show a weather window of southwest winds, but it's still too far in advance to count on...we will not tempt fate with expectations. (posted by guest Pam.)

For more about Seal see http://www.expeditionsail.com.