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The Moonshadow Reports

George Backhus and Merima Jaferi are sailing around the world aboard Moonshadow, a Deerfoot 2-62. We asked George for a few details about Moonshadow and her cruising itinerary:

"A lot of yachties comment on how she looks almost new and are taken aback when we tell them she's nearly twenty years old now. Funny how over time a 'radical' design can become mainstream. In the 13 years I've owned her (or she's owned me!), we've logged more than 70,000 miles (nearly half of that was single- or double-handed). The original plan was a five-to-eight-year circumnavigation, but we have, as they say, been caught in the drift and just had too much fun. While we've updated much of the electronics, some of the gear and machinery, and most of the decor over the years, she's still in very much in her original configuration, which we find works very well for what we are doing."

As of 2007, they have past the halfway point of the circumnavigation, which started in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida in 1994. (Merima joined Moonshadow in Australia.) After several years each in Mexico, the South Pacific, New Zealand, Australia, and Southeast Asia, they've now crossed the Indian Ocean. Plans are to cruise the Med for the next few summers - Cypress, Greece and Turkey this summer, then Croatia, Italy and Spain the next. After leaving the Med, they plan to head across the Atlantic in the ARC Rally, which will close the loop on their circumnavigation.

To view logs select a date below:

9 Nov 2007 We asked all the SetSailors to write about visibility at sea. Here is George & Merima's answer.
28 Oct 2007 Getting Med Ready: Med-mooring tips. (Photos)
8 Oct 2007 George and Merima report on exploring Turkey's Lycian Coast - truly a place you must see before you die. Then, they bid farewell to Moonshadow, leaving her in dry storage while they fly home to New Zealand for several months. (Photos)
14 Sept 2007 Cruising the Carian Coast of Turkey. (Photos)
29 Aug 2007 Searching for Atlantis and narrowly averting disaster in the Cyclades Islands of Greece. (Photos)
9 Aug 2007 Moonshadow sails back to medieval times in Greece's Dodecanese Islands. (Photos)
31 July 2007 A year ago, the island of Cyprus was not even on the radar screen. But what was supposed to be a quick stopover turned into a month-long stay, when George & Merima fell under its spell. (Photos)
13 July 2007 Adventures with officialdom: Transiting the Suez Canal. (Photos)
4 July 2007 We asked all the SetSailors to write about anchoring techniques for challenging conditions. Here are George & Merima's anchoring tales.
3 July 2007 The Red Sea Logs: Checking out the wonders of the world in Egpyt. (Photos)
18 June 2007 The Red Sea Logs: Exploring Sudan. (Photos)
5 June 2007 The Red Sea Logs: Photos and details about cruising in Eritrea and Yemen. (Photos)
25 May 2007 Exploring Oman: Merima and George knew very little about the port of Salalah, expecting only to make a quick stopover after crossing the Indian Ocean. Yet what they encountered there was fascinating. (Photos)
11 May 2007 Here's a report on Moonshadow's month in the Maldives, anchoring in the "swimming pool" in front of $1000/night resorts. (Photos)
19 April 2007 We asked George and Merima whether they have experience using Skype and WiFi for staying in touch while cruising.
5 April 2007 How to avoid getting tangled in drift nets.
29 Mar 2007 Salalah to Eritrea - Day 5. Into the Red Sea, and arrival in Assab, Eritrea.
28 Mar 2007 Salalah to Eritrea - Day 4. Stopping for the night at a small Yemeni fishing village leads to an encounter with local fishermen and military officials.
27 Mar 2007 Salalah to Eritrea - Day 3. Deciding to give Aden a miss; heading on to Eritrea instead.
26 Mar 2007 Salalah to Aden - Day 2.
25 Mar 2007 Salalah to Aden - Day 1.
24 Mar 2007 Departing Salalah for Aden through the infamous "Pirate Alley". George & Merima discuss their tactics for avoiding a pirate encounter, and what they plan to do should an encounter occur. (anti-piracy contact info added 29 Mar)
19 Mar 2007 Moonshadow arrives at Port Salalah in Oman - Day 8. One of her slowest passages ever, but one of the most enjoyable too. (Photos added 26 Mar)
18 Mar 2007 Passage from Maldives to Oman - Day 7. (Photos added 26 Mar)
17 Mar 2007 Passage from Maldives to Oman - Day 6. (Photos added 26 Mar)
16 Mar 2007 Passage from Maldives to Oman - Day 5.
15 Mar 2007 Passage from Maldives to Oman - Day 4.
14 Mar 2007 Passage from Maldives to Oman - Day 3.
13 Mar 2007 Passage from Maldives to Oman - Day 2. (Posted 15 Mar)
12 Mar 2007 Passage from Maldives to Salalah, Oman - Day 1.
11 Mar 2007 Report on the Andaman Islands. (Photos)
7 Feb 2007 Landfall at Male - Day 7.5.
6 Feb 2007 Andamans to Maldives - Day 7.
5 Feb 2007 Andamans to Maldives - Day 6.
4 Feb 2007 Andamans to Maldives - Day 5. Pilot whales, rain.
3 Feb 2007 Andamans to Maldives - Day 4.
2 Feb 2007 Andamans to Maldives - Day 3.
1 Feb 2007 Headed to the Maldives - Day 2. Wx is "stuck on beautiful", perfect sailing conditions, close call with the Indian Navy.
31 Jan 2007 Headed to the Maldives - Day 1.
30 Jan 2007 Extending a Thai Visa (or, a Punishing Day in Phuket). This is a report filed a few weeks ago before George & Merima left Thailand. (Photo)
19 Jan 2007 SetSail asked George & Merima a few questions about their foul weather gear.
17 Jan 2007 Arrival at Port Blain in the Andaman Islands.
16 Jan 2007 Phuket to Andamans - Day 2.
15 Jan 2007 Moonshadow has left Thailand and is headed for the Med. The first leg across the Indian Ocean has begun.
14 Jan 2007 Land-cruising in Cambodia: Following in the footsteps of Indiana Jones. (Photos)
9 Jan 2007 Land-cruising in Vietnam and Cambodia, part 2. (Photos)
6 Dec 2006 Land-cruising in Vietnam and Cambodia, part 1. (Photos)
29 Nov 2006 George writes about his favorite tools. (Photos)
26 Oct 2006 Merima & George answer our questions about how they keep up with the news while out cruising. (Photos)
17 Oct 2006 Malacca, a highlight of Malaysia; and provisioning heaven in Singapore. (Photo)
4 Oct 2006 Further thoughts on cruising plans and political turmoil.
21 Sept 2006 Coup in Thailand - Will this affect Moonshadow's cruising plans?
15 Aug 2006 We asked all the SetSailors to tell us about their favorite places. (Photos)
12 July 2006 A guide to help you decode cruiser's lingo.
1 June 2006 Airing the laundry. (Photos)
16 May 2006 Lazing around Langkawi. (Photos)
28 Mar 2006 With a month on their hands, Merima and George take a leisurely tour through Thailand. (Photos)
16 Mar 2006 Staying cool on Moonshadow while cruising in the tropics. (Photos)
17 Jan 2006 Langkawi and SailAsia Rally Week. (Photos)
20 Dec 2005 At the request of a SetSailor, George reflects on his first ocean passage - the Pacific Cup 1996, wherein he didn't win the race, but he surely didn't lose the party. (Photos)
13 Dec 2005 The straits of Malacca to the Andaman Sea. (Photos)
6 Dec 2005 Singapore - Almost a utopian society. (Photos)
22 Nov 2005 More monkey business, stealth island hopping, and a shellback ceremony. (Photos)
9 Nov 2005 Merima and George venture up the Kumai River to watch orangutans feeding in the jungle. (Photos)
3 Nov 2005 Cheeky monkeys and playing chicken with ferries in Bali. (Photos)
20 Oct 2005 At our request, George wrote about sail maintenance and repair.
9 Oct 2005 Lombok, the Gili Islands, and nighttime sailing that's like a demanding video game. (Photos)
27 Sept 2005 Flores Island - Mysterious multicolored volcanic lakes, giant komodo dragons, and some urban adventures too. (Photos)
12 Sept 2005 Kalabahi, Alor Island. (Photos)
2 Sept 2005 After years of cruising in the South Pacific, Moonshadow's crew adjusts to the sights and sounds of Indonesia. First stop: Kupang, West Timor. (Photos)
1 Sept 2005 We asked the SetSailors to write about gaining "local knowledge" while cruising.
25 July 2005 Darwin to Kupang rally - Day 3 - Moonshadow arrives in Indonesia
24 July 2005 Darwin to Kupang rally - Day 2
23 July 2005 Darwin, Australia to Kupang, Indonesia - Day 1
15 July 2005 (New) Rouding the top of Australia, and prepping for the Darwin-to-Kupang rally. (Photos added 02 Sept 05)
10 July 2005 Queensland, Australia: Cruising the Whitsundays to Cape York. (Photos)
10 July 2005 George answers our questions about his system for keeping watch.
13 June 2005 On cruising cuisine. (Photos)
22 April 2005 Staying in touch and paying the bills while cruising.
10 March 2005 We asked all the SetSail writers about their ground tackle.
19 Jan 2005 Tips for sailing with crew (including checklists).
14 Dec 2004 Hamo and Hoggie regattas in the Whitsundays - Spring Break for grown-ups. (Photos)
11 Oct 2004 George answers our questions as to his sources for weather data while cruising.
15 Sept 2004 Adventures in the Liquid Outback: Brisbane to the Whitsunday Islands. (Photo)
26 July 2004 This week we asked the SetSailors to write about their own cruising blunders. George shares a sober memory of going up on a reef in the Tuamotus.
16 July 2004 We asked all our cruising contributors to write about the five most common mistakes they see among people who are starting out cruising. (Photo)
4 July 2004 George fills us in on the magical final day of the Noumea-Brisbane passage.
3 July 2004 Noumea to Brisbane - Arrival.
2 July 2004 Noumea to Brisbane - Day 4.
1 July 2004 Noumea to Brisbane - Day 3. Wind gods are playing hide and seek.
30 June 2004 Noumea to Brisbane - Day 2.
29 June 2004 Passage report from Noumea to Brisbane - Day 1.
10 June 2004 Auckland to Noumea -Finish.
09 June 2004 Auckland to Noumea - Day 5.
08 June 2004 Auckland to Noumea - Day 4.
07 June 2004 Auckland to Noumea - Day 3.
06 June 2004 Passage reports from Auckland to Noumea - Day 2 - Reinforced tradewinds for a fast and fun ride.
05 June 2004 Mayhem ensues at the start of the Auckland-to-Noumea race.
02 June 2004 Thoughts on safety at sea.
30 May 2004 After succumbing to New Zealand's charms, and spending an extended period of time there, George is now Heading West again, with plans to complete Moonshadow's circumnavigation.
14 April 2004 Part of the cruising life is that you sometimes have to leave the boat somewhere while you travel inland. Here are George's 15 tips for leaving a boat.
27 Feb 2004 George answers our questions about what jibs he uses while cruising, and what he would do differently if buying a new set of headsails.
13 Feb 2004 "Sex and the Sea."
18 Dec 2003 Christmas in New Zealand.
23 Oct 2003 What George would do to prepare Moonshadow for a hurricane.
19 Sept 2003 Mail forwarding and bill paying while cruising.
2 May 2003 Propane.
27 Jan 2003 Mast boot and chain plate deck penetrations.
06 Jan 2003 Happy New Year from Great Barrier Island.
25 Nov 2002 George talks about his compressor setup, which allows him to dive in exotic locations. Plus, precautions he takes in case a diving accident occurs far from medical help.
08 Nov 2002 The Coastal Classic race...2000 sailors, 228 yachts, 120 miles of New Zealand coastline, and one big party. (photos)
31 Sept 2002 George answers a reader's question about options for getting weather data while cruising.
21 Sept 2002 Back in the City of Sails.
20 Sept 2002 Day 5.
19 Sept 2002 Day 4 - 300 miles to Auckland. George gets "swept off his feet" in a knockdown.
18 Sept 2002 Day 3 Fiji - New Zealand.
17 Sept 2002 Day 2 Fiji - New Zealand.
16 Sept 2002 Day 1 of the passage from Fiji to New Zealand.
14 Sept 2002 As soon as the weather turns favorable, it's time to sail back to New Zealand. (Check back for daily reports while underway.) Geroge says that with the unpredictable weather, this passage can be like crossing a freeway, blindfolded, at rush hour.
13 Sept 2002 Reprovisioning at a small town on the island of Taveuni. Imagine the Hawaiian island of Kauai 100 years ago. (photos)
06 Sept 2002 Find out why Viani Bay is George's favorite spot in all of Fiji. (photos)
31 Aug 2002 Part 4: Koro, Fiji's final fronteir; and Savusavu, home to some colorful ex-pats.
21 Aug 2002 George's advice to a beginner sailor with dreams of cruising around the world.
9 Aug 2002 Part 3: Exploring more anchorages on the island of Yadua, and socializing with the locals.
2 Aug 2002 Part 2: Yadua, Fiji. More "good-as-it-gets" cruising. (photos)
26 July 2002 Part 1 of George's 4-part report on Yadua, Koro, and Savusavu. This week he talks about Savusavu, the only port of entry on the second-largest Fijian island of Vanua Levu. (photos)
18 July 2002 George answers SetSail's questions about MOONSHADOW's batteries.
22 June 2002 Cruising the Mamanuthas in Fiji - where MOONSHADOW is going, and why it's so easy to linger there. (photo)
14 June 2002 This week we've asked all the SetSailors to share with us their strategies for avoiding malaria when cruising in the tropics.
04 May 2002 Bula Bula from Fiji!
02 May 2002 The final stretch...MOONSHADOW's charging along like a horse that can see the barn.
01 May 2002 Surf's up! Sailing through a squash zone.
30 April 2002 Half way to Fiji.
29 April 2002 Out of steam.
28 April 2002 Freight train to Fiji.
24 April 2002 An update just before MOONSHADOW sails for Fiji.
19 April 2002 George answers a SetSailor's question: "How can I get enough money together to buy a boat and go cruising?".
22 March 2002 What to do if you're inexperienced at putting together medical kits. Also, what to include for the "Coconut Milk Run".
8 February 2002 George Backhus answers a few questions about the electronics aboard MOONSHADOW.
19 January 2002 Exploring New Zealand's spectacular Hauraki Gulf. (photos)
31 December 2001 SetSail asks George some questions about his man overboard equipment and recovery tactics.
14 December 2001 How George keeps busy during the cruising off-season in New Zealand...Rum racing! (photos)
08 December 2001 George spent the past summer testing the SetSail edition of MaxSea for us. In this article he writes about how he used the tracking feature to survey an uncharted entrance into a lagoon in Vanuatu. (photos)
30 November 2001 This week SetSail asked George a series of questions about his life raft.
19 November 2001 MOONSHADOW places third in the "Round Rangitoto" race, with the help of SetSail-MaxSea. (photos)
1 November 2001 George answers a reader's questions about cruising with cats.
22 October 2001 Back in the First World...Racing, wine-tasting, and whittling down the to-do list.
15 October 2001 Easing back into civilization in New Zealand's Bay of Islands.
12 October 2001 George and Cate size up their cruising plans in the wake of world changes.
10 October 2001 White-knuckle landfall in New Zealand. (Track shown.)
08 October 2001 Arrival in Aeotearoa.
07 October 2001 Noumea, New Caledonia to Auckland, New Zealand...Day 4. (photos)
05 October 2001 Noumea, New Caledonia to Auckland, New Zealand...Day 2. (photos)
04 October 2001 Noumea, New Caledonia to Auckland, New Zealand...Day 1. (photos)
29 September 2001 Bonjour from New Caledonia (posted 12 Oct 01)
28 September 2001 More adventures with the natives of Vanuatu, finding out about local "bride prices", and dugong sightings.
19 September 2001 George reports on how cruisers and locals in Vanuatu are responding to last week's tragedies.
14 September 2001 The Banks Islands, Part Two...Natives hitch a ride aboard MOONSHADOW, and an inter-island trading ship pays an eventful visit.
08 September 2001 The Banks Islands, Part One...Cruising as good as it gets.
31 August 2001

This mouth-watering report will wet your appetite with tales of feasting on coconut crab in Tegua, and gifting the village of Diver's Bay with a spectacular sailfish caught aboard MOONSHADOW.

25 August 2001

Dayhopping from Espiritu Santo to the Banks and Torres Islands. Highlights of all the beautiful anchorages and interesting villages, and befriending Chief Nicholson.

17 August 2001

This week we've asked George to write about the reefing system he uses aboard MOONSHADOW.

10 August 2001

George and Cate entertain Cate's parents with a two-week spin around Northern Vanuatu. (Photos.)

2 August 2001

Communication in the "Boonies": George's guide to keeping in touch via regular phones, cell phones, email, or SatCom.

28 July 2001 A challenging jungle hike, landing a 50-pound wahoo, and on to Santo. (Photo added July 30.)
20 July 2001 MOONSHADOW visits Vanu Atu's Maskelyne Islands...George and Cate do some great dives, and visit some isolated villages, where parents "canoe-pool" their kids to school, and the church is built of shipwreck debris.
13 July 2001 A visit to the remote village of Potnarvin on the island of Erromango, where George and Cate make fast friends with Chief Joe and the other Ni-Vanuatuans. Highlights: Lobster hunting, delivering eyeglasses, and introducing the natives to surfing.
6 July 2001 A rough passage to Vanu Atu's Tanna Island, where MOONSHADOW's crew enjoys the hospitality, unique culture and delicious food of the locals. Plus, the benefits of rally cruising.
29 June 2001 Spearfishing in New Caledonia, George has a run-in with a white-tipped shark.
23 June 2001 This week we've asked George to write about roller furling (or, as he calls it, roller snarling).
9 June 2001 More secrets of Lord Howe Island revealed. (With more photos.)
1 June 2001 Lord Howe Island is a rare, undiscovered South Pacific paradise. George just got his photos developed, and was inspired to share more details about this spectacular island.
21 May 2001 Reef fishing, exploring the interesting culture, and enjoying the powder beaches at Ils des Pins. Plus, how George got around the problem of poorly charted anchorages.
18 May 2001

This week we've asked George Backhus to write about piracy. He's given it considerable thought, since his circumnavigation may take him to some high-risk areas like the Strait of Malacca or the Gulf of Aden.

15 May 2001 Traveling when the sun is high to negotiate the coral, catching more fish, and arrival at Ile des Pins.
9 May 2001 Arrival in Noumea.
8 May 2001 Day # 4...A cold front brings squalls which make for an interesting night.
7 May 2001 Day # 3...The wind has finally arrived!
6 May 2001 Lord Howe to Noumea, Day # 2.
5 May 2001 Lord Howe rates "best so far" of all the remote islands George has visited, but now MOONSHADOW is underway again, bound for Noumea, New Caledonia. Keep checking back for frequent reports sent via Sailmail during the passage.
30 April 2001 A dramatic arrival at Lord Howe Island.
29 April 2001 Day # 2 of the passage to Lord Howe Island.
28 April 2001 Dolphins, bioluminescence, and a bright display of stars...sailing at night doesn't get much better.
27 April 2001 It's autumn in Sydney, so MOONSHADOW heads north for the winter.
30 March 2001 Some details you should know if you plan to cruise the South Pacific with pets.
23 March 2001

The annual haulout.

9 March 2001

The Scoop on SCUBA - If you're going cruising and plan to do some SCUBA diving, George has written this article for you. With technical advice as well as a list of favorite off-the-beaten-track dive spots (and photos).

2 March 2001

Discovering the idyllic cruising grounds of Broken Bay, New South Wales, Australia (new photos added March 9).

23 February 2001 With MOONSHADOW safely parked in Sydney, George enjoys a road trip to Canberra and Melbourne. Crewing in a yacht race in Melbourne, he gets a taste of the unpredictable local weather (new photos added March 9).
16 February 2001 Whittling down MOONSHADOW's to-do list, while enjoying the attractions of Sydney.
16 February 2001 An update on MOONSHADOW's Christmas in the "Land of Oz".
9 February 2001 George writes about joining the Sydney Harbour revelry on Australia Day (Independence Day Down Under).
2 February 2001 How much does it cost to go cruising? Here is George Backhus's take on the question.
13 January 2001 More Vanuatu...on to New Caledonia, which George finds surprisingly different from Tahiti...and waiting for the right weather for the tricky passage to Australia. (New pictures!)
29 December 2000 In Vanuatu MOONSHADOW's crew dives on World War II wrecks and visits stone-age villages. (New photos added January 13!)
22 December 2000 The adventures continue in Fiji, where MOONSHADOW lost her engine and gave him the chance to practice piloting through coral under sail. (New photos added January 13!)
12 November 2000 Clearing in to Sydney, Australia.
10 November 2000 Another lovely day on the Tasman Sea, motorsailing and shark-watching.
08 November 2000 A smorgasbord of weather conditions keeps the crew extremely busy.
07 November 2000 Close reaching into a fresh breeze, en route to Australia.
06 November 2000 MOONSHADOW is now in Noumea, New Caledonia...and watching the weather in advance of the sail to Australia.
02 August 2000 Diving Great Astrolabe Reef; and poisonous snakes stow away on board. (posted 19 Aug 00)
02 August 2000 George and crew delight in spectacular diving and beach barbecues with the locals...and then Fiji's civil unrest hits a little too close to home. (posted 10 Aug 00)
31 July 2000 Enjoying the hospitality of the natives in a remote Fiji village, lightyears away from policial turmoil.
8 June 2000 Arrival in beautiful Savusavu, Fiji.
6 June 2000 MOONSHADOW winds her way through the islands of the Koro Sea; and tips on trolling for fish.
5 June 2000 Sailing--the way it's supposed to be.
4 June 2000 After a restful pit stop and a chance to catch up on boat chores, MOONSHADOW sails on for Fiji.
3 June 2000 Waiting for sunrise to enter the pass for Minerva Reef, then losing the bow roller assembly.
2 June 2000 The "phantom front" finally passes over, bringing a favorable wind shift and more settled sea state.
1 June 2000 The weather fails to agree with the weather maps.
31 May 2000 Diverting to Minerva Reef, bashing into north wind and seas, and awaiting the frontal passage.
30 May 2000 The coup in Suva, Fiji, forces a change of plans.
29 May 2000 The Horse Latitudes; wildlife at sea; and a run-down on the race fleet.
28 May 2000 Fixing autopilots, enjoying pre-cooked meals, and overall adjusting to being at sea.
27 May 2000 MOONSHADOW joins the annual Royal Akarana Yacht Club race from Auckland to Fiji, with a careful eye on the weather.
23 March 2000 How to go for a Quicktime VR sail aboard MOONSHADOW.
31 December 99 Cruising the unspoiled islands of New Zealand's Hauraki Gulf, racing, and millenial festivities.
12 October 99 Rangitoto Island is finally in sight after an eventful day of ghosterly winds and engine troubles. (photo added 24Jan00)
Archives Archived logs from MOONSHADOW's earlier voyages through the South Pacific, Mexico, and Hawaii.
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