Sept 12, 2005 - Indonesia - Kalabahi, Alor Island
by George Backhus

The next port of call on our itinerary was Kalabahi on the island of Alor, about 175 miles north. We were looking forward to Alor as it is purported to have some of the best SCUBA diving in Indonesia. We split the trip into two long day-sails, hugging the north coast of Timor the first day and anchoring for the night in sight of West Timor. We kept a low profile that night, no anchor light, and departed for Kalabahi before dawn the next morning. We sailed due north across the Savu Sea and worked our way through the channels leading to Kalabahi.

The numerous small villages clinging to the steep hillsides along the west shore of Alor provided some great scenery as we hugged the shoreline to get some relief from the wicked currents, in some cases more than four knots, in Selat Pantar channel. Finally turning northeast into Teluk Kalabahi (which means Bay of Kalabahi), with a rising tide, we finally got a bit of current behind us and made it to the tight anchorage in time for sundowners.

From a distance in the binoculars, the anchorage looked more like a marina or a raft-up. We found one remaining spot in the anchorage in reasonably shallow water (less than 20 meters) and carefully anchored, short roding, in a spot that left us quite cozy with four other rally boats. To keep things interesting, the wind gods made sure to cycle the breeze through at least 360 degrees each day.

Kalabahi was alive with a regional art, craft and music expo, so soon our ears were under full assault from loud music and, of course, the regular call to prayer from the village mosque. Of course there were plenty of welcoming ceremonies and various other activities for the rally participants, but we came mainly for the diving.

We enjoyed a walk in the village, had a few beers at the temporary "yacht club" set up for the cruisers at the local hotel, and a very nice meal on shore.

The next day, we were up early and boarded a traditional boat that had been chartered by DiveAlor, the local outfit to take us to some of the choice local spots. It was a real kick to actually get a ride on one of the boats we had seen going by us many times at close range.

Basic is probably an understatement for this dive boat. While it was reasonably clean and in good nik, it was apparent that DiveAlor had a whole kit that they brought on for the dive charter. This included things like dive compressors, tanks, snacks and water that one would expect on a dive boat, but also some things that most Indonesian boats don't have, like life vests, a first aid kit, carpet for the sun deck (roof), toilet paper, music, those sorts of things.

	The "engineer" on the local dive boat in Kalabahi, Alor.

What amazed me is how these people manage to navigate these boats in the open ocean with such a minimum of gear. The wheel house had just that - a wheel. Nothing else. No compass, no GPS, no VHF radio, no engine instruments, no helming seat, no nothing. Not even a compass. The captain made his way purely by good old-fashioned EBN (eyeball navigation). The helm, an old car steering wheel, was connected "Rube Goldberg style" to the rudder post some 40 feet aft by exposed polypropylene lines guided through a series of old wooden pulleys. There was no throttle or gear shifter. Engine control was done by a voice call from the wheelhouse to the "engineer", a little man stationed below the floorboards in the bilges next to the engine. I have no idea how he could even hear the commands from up front over the racket of the engine. The galley consisted of a single burner diesel stove and an ancient looking tea kettle in a tiny nook across from the toilet. The galley had that "well used" look and oil coating, similar to the engine. The toilet, situated strategically at the very aft
end of the boat, was absolutely brilliant in its simplicity. It consisted of a hole in the transom of the boat, with a toilet seat positioned over it, raised off the floor by a round stainless steel chute. There was no flush handle, no bowl, no pipes, no pumps, no holding tank, and other than the hinged toilet seat, no moving parts. Only a yachtie who has suffered through a clogged toilet could really appreciate this. There was a roll of toilet paper hanging on the wall and a bucket of water and a ladle for washing up after. The décor consisted of an assortment of graffiti, either carved or scrawled in felt pen on the three rough-hewn wood bulkheads and door. I guess this was sort of the Indonesian version of "Kilroy was here".

The most important thing was that we had three excellent dives in the waters surrounding Alor, and shared a great day on and in the water in excellent conditions with some fellow yachties. We encountered loads of clownfish, some black with white stripes, quite a few lionfish, and a couple of interesting frogfish. The soft corals and sponges were prolific, and all in all the place lived up to its reputation.

Again, longing for some peace and quiet, and with no particular destination in mind, we sailed west the next day, leaving the islands of Kuwala and Pantara to our port side. In light airs and calm waters we spent the day watching as seaside villages, massive volcanic mountains with smoking cones and scenic bays and inlets passed us by. We took anchorage off of a sand cay not far from a pearl farm near the northwest corner of Adunara Island. Enjoying the peace and quiet so much, we lingered there for a second day and caught up on some missed sleep and boat chores. There was no mosque in earshot! Departing early the next morning, we made our way over the northeast tip of Flores Island and took anchorage on a coral shelf just before sunset at a small volcanic cone island called Babi. With a sundowner, we watched the sun drop behind a very picturesque little fishing village situated on a small sand spit extending from the main part of the island.