A Walk 'Round Raivavae (Friday, June 11, l999)

	My crew Paula Skinner and me during a walk around Raivavae.

Family and Friends:

We have been enjoying a couple of excellent days in this island paradise. The fresh northwesterlies have given way to gentle breezes, so we've struck out to stretch our legs a bit.

Checking in to Raivavae was a pleasant experience and we all got a very cool stamp on our Passports. Unlike Mexico, there was no intimidation, excessive paperwork, mordida (bribes) and beaurocratic bullshit. One stop at the local gendarmerie (French police station), a few questions and friendly smiles, no money, you're done. As it should be!

Raivavae is very untouched by tourism. You pretty much can't get here from there, unless you have a yacht or want to come in on the monthly cargo ship. No airport, no ferry, no traffic lights, no restaurants, no taxicabs, no pollution, no T-shirt shops, no stress, no Starbucks. Just peace and quiet and simple island living. The locals seem to prefer it that way.

Today we decided to "do" Raivavae. After a few chores, we set out on foot to walk the perimeter of the island. We trekked for 15 miles on mostly unpaved coral roads through five small villages. The island is surrounded by a barrier reef, so the waterfront is very quiet. Most of the population live in simple but well kept homes along the water. You can tell you've reached a village when you see a church, a community water faucet and a phone booth. Everyone we encountered was friendly and we chatted with some of the people who we met walking or riding along the road. French and Tahitian are the predominant languages, but some speak English. The island is very clean and the lush tropical flora well manicured.

Most of the locals raise pigs along the waterfront as part of their diet. It seems that the French nuclear testing, a few hundred miles upwind and upcurrent in the Tuamotus, has left the fish inedible. Another example of government intelligence!

Checking out was as simple as a verbal goodbye to the gendarme. Tomorrow morning we sail for Tahiti, either Moorea or Papeete, we're not sure, but we'll keep you posted.

Aloha, George, Paula, Phyllis, Steve, Dale and MaiTai