Coconut Milk Run - The Cook Islands

Family and Friends:

Landlubber (non-seafaring) acquaintances often ask us if we stop and anchor each night when we are sailing across the ocean. I tell them that assuming an ocean depth of 5000 feet and a proper anchoring scope of five to one, it would take about 25,000 feet of rode, which even the largest and most well equipped cruising yachts are unable to carry.

There are, however exceptions to the above. Beveridge Reef is one of them. About 120 miles from the nearest land, this little spot rises to within a few feet of sea level. At the moment, we are literally anchored in the middle of the ocean.

Yesterday, a group of us dove on the edge of this little reef in pristine coral gardens in crystal clear water with visibilities of more than 100 feet. We had one of those serendipitous dives where it all comes together. We found a beautiful coral canyon swarming with large snapper, parrotfish, grouper, barracuda and reef sharks. I managed to bring home eight lobster that I found in a well stocked underwater cave. Afterwards, a pod of whales swam right by our dinghies as we were finishing the dive and a sea turtle gave us the high fin as we hoisted the anchor and dinked back to "Holding Pattern," "Moonshadow," and "September Ripple."

There are six boats here enjoying the nothingness of this little respite on their trek west to Niue and Tonga. We are flying what we assume to be the Beveridge Reef courtesy flag, a martini glass with a stuffed olive on a white background, and doing what cruisers do when they get snug in an anchorage-having a few bevvies with other cruisers.

Since we last wrote from Rarotonga, we sailed north and spent a relaxing week in the quiet and beautiful atoll at Aitutaki. Aitutaki has much of the beauty of Bora Bora, all the friendliness of Raro, only much quieter and more laid back. We did some diving, hiking and enjoyed perhaps some of the best island music and dancing we have experienced so far. Paula showed off some of her drumming ability on one of the local instruments with a group of locals having an impromptu jam session.

Aitutiaki is a cat paradise. No dogs allowed! For the yachties it's great too because there is no yapping in the middle of the quiet island nights. One local with a strong PETernal instinct has adopted a cute little black and white pig he named Nicolai. Nicolai is always in hand, eats quite well and gets a bath each day. Hey, whatever.

A couple of chuckles. First, most of the yachties listen to a radio "net" each day to get current weather, report positions, and share pertinent information relating to their voyages. Heard one morning on the net-"good judgment comes from experience-experience comes from bad judgment." Also, last night we were watching a video on board "Moonshadow" after dinner. In one of the previews, it said "coming to a theater near you." We just looked at each other and said "I DON'T THINK SO."

We are hanging out here for another day or so and then head west to the little island nation of Niue.