With
new crew aboard - our cruising buddies the Martin family were visiting
us from Annapolis - we wasted no time getting to the islands off Italy's
central coast near Naples for some serious beach cruising!
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| The
Boyle family with their visiting cruising friends, the Martins. |
Zia
is a three-cabin boat; in order to accommodate an extra family of
four, we had to deploy our "fourth cabin". We pitch a small
tent on the trampoline and put an air mattress in it. We can actually
sail with it in place, although we usually take it down for passages.
Our fourth cabin can take plenty of wind, it's waterproof and of course
the kids love it.
Our first
stop was the uninhabited island of Palmarola. We approached early
in the morning from our night passage and anchored over hard sand
in a nearly deserted cove. By noon, the anchorage had filled up with
maybe 50 boats. Apparently this is a popular destination for boaters
from Naples who flock there in the summertime to enjoy the beaches
and clear water.
That
evening, we moved five miles to the west side of the Island of Ponza.
We anchored in a deep cove near a local fishing village and went looking
for a local seafood restaurant that we had heard about. If you ever
get the chance, go to Da Gennaro la Bestia in Ponza and order up the
lobster pasta. The restaurant is a kind of rickety affair built into
the side of a hill, but the food is fresh and delicious.
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| Christy
with Johnny and Po Martin, and a monster lobster. |
Around
on the east side of Ponza is the principle city. We anchored just
outside of a mooring field and again we just beat the crowds as boat
after boat anchored near us. The town is a charming seaside village
whose primary economy of tourism causes the summer population of the
village to swell. The secondary economy of fishing sustains the full
time inhabitants of the island and makes for some fine meals for us
tourists. There was a festival going on and we were treated to a city
decorated with lights, banners and flags. The locals were dressed
to the nines and treated to fireworks and street concerts.
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| The
crew in Ponza. |
We kept
up our pace and departed early the next morning for Ventotene, a smaller
and less touristy island, famous for its scuba diving. We were thinking
about taking a slip in their small marina but as we got nearer, it
didn't look like our fat cat could squeeze in. We dropped the hook
in the anchorage. When we dinghied in, however, we saw that the harbor
opens up after a dramatic hairpin turn, and there would have been
plenty of room for us.
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| Ventotene. |
Ventotene
is small enough to see in about an hour so we hung out in the village
square until we tracked down some pizza for lunch and made our plans
to depart for Capri.
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| Lounging
in the village square in Ventotene. |
Capri
is sort of like the Beverly Hills of this part of the Italian coast.
Start with the stunning sight of jagged white towering cliffs rising
800 feet straight out of the sea, and mix in all the fancy designer
names you can think of, and you will start to get a feeling for the
incredible opulence, both natural and manmade, of this island.
The first
night we anchored at dusk in 45 feet on a rocky bottom and I dreamed
of dragging all night. Early the next morning we took a transient
slip at the marina for 260 Euro a night: a new all-time high price
for Zia, but at least I would sleep well. It made sense for
us though, since we all wanted to see as much of Capri as we could
before leaving for the mainland. The ferry drivers did not cut the
marina a break, sending us 3- and 4-foot wakes when they went zooming
past.
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| Downtown
Capri. |
We hiked
the trails and window-shopped, but we didn't buy anything since the
marina price was killing us. Capri has plenty of public gardens and
parks with beautiful landscaping and views. It was a real joy to simply
stroll around the island on the well-tended paths.
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| Zia
from the Blue Grotto on Capri, |
We circumnavigated
Capri, stopping at the Blue Grotto for a great photo shot. Christy
practiced her cliff jumping from 60 feet, which was a bit too high
for the rest of us sane people.
Next
on the list was Positano, on the mainland Amalfi coast. It was a favorite
holiday resort dating way back to Roman times. Unlike Capri, perched
high up in the valley between two even higher peaks, the town of Positano
is nestled vertically around a network of hillsides on the coast.
Whereas in Capri you could pretty much avoid the stairs if you wanted
to, there is no chance of that if you want to explore Positano.
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| Positano,
Amalfi coast |
There
were beautiful hotels and shops to explore, but the city was teeming
with tourist groups, so we mostly hung out on Zia, swimming
and enjoying the company.
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| The
hottest of the hot... |
Amalfi
is a city with a famous renaissance cathedral and monastery. We anchored
all alone in a tight but picturesque cove that took two anchors strategically
placed to keep us off the rocks. We had to drag the kids out to see
another church and museum, but they enjoyed it once they got in the
spirit.
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| Amalfi
Cathedral. |
Here
the Martin family left us and boarded a ferry for Naples. After all
of the hubbub and great company, it always takes us a couple of days
to get back into our regular family routine. We were cheered, however,
by our plan to head north to Pompeii to meet up with more friends
on Cenou.
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| Anchored
in Amalfi. |