I suppose we should not have been too surprised to find more Greek ruins awaiting our discovery as we continued our travels in Sicily. This statue was actually one of a matched pair of pillars holding up the entrance to a temple - about 10 meters long.

Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples was well worth the effort. We found the local bus that took us there and back and spent several hot hours exploring. We imagined great forested valleys that must have existed when the Greeks decided to establish a colony here. The whole island was a large source of agricultural products for them, so it must have also gotten more rain than current-day Sicily. Nonetheless, the stories of the gods and the sacrifices and the wars between the various Greek colonies - as well as against the Carthaginians and Romans - kept our imaginations stoked.

Agrigento.

The winds have been fickle for most of the month but we did manage to sail for three or four hours when we first took off, but frequent shifts in direction and force had us working way too hard for the 5-knot speeds we were getting. We did have some fun hauling out both of the headsails, one on either side of the boat, and seeing us sail up to 7 or 8 knots. Alas, If only it had lasted.

(Photo by Cenou.)

We arrived in Siracusa in little wind and stifling heat around noon the next day. Trying to catch up on a few hours of sleep, we finally gave up as the temperatures reached the high 90s inside the boat. Inspired by sheer desperation, we dug out our awning that we had last used nearly a year ago in Sevilla. It is always a challenge to remember how to rig something that we use so rarely but we got it figured out right this time. Being able to lounge in the shade on the bow of the boat in the breeze is a wonderful thing after sitting in the stifling stillness of the cockpit where much of the breeze is blocked by the cabin.

Naturally, an hour or so after rigging the awning, the wind piped up into the 20s and we had to take it down. We left it tied down on the bow, ready to re-deploy at the earliest opportunity. We took care of chores like laundry and shopping. The coin operated self-service laundry mat is the first we have seen in Italy and we carted three or four weeks worth of laundry over and waited our turn. We decided to bring it back to the boat and hang it to dry, saving ourselves the wait in line for the dryers as well as the expense and extra use of energy. While the washing machines were going, we walked across the bridge to the open air market that is held every morning except Sunday. The fruits and vegetables are amazing, fresh and home grown.

Of course, Siracusa also has its own Greek ruins. It is actually the oldest Greek colony in Sicily, established by the Corinthians, and home to the famous scientist, Archimedes. Siracusa alone resisted the Carthaginian invasions that destroyed all the other Greek colonies on the island in the first decade of 400BC. Both a Greek and a Roman theater survive in good condition, as well as the stone quarries which provided much of the material for the other ancient monuments in the area. Naturally, there are churches to visit as well, including the magnificent Duomo, built around the 6th century BC Temple of Minerva, whose structure is clearly seen both inside and outside the modern church.

The remains of a Greek temple inside the Duomo.

Next we head 50 miles north to the picturesque and tourist-overrun town of Taormina, where we look forward to a nice beach day or two before hopping along the sole of the boot on our way to Croatia.