After a tiring passage, the thirteen-mile wide entrance to the Bay of Islands in Northland New Zealand is an appealing landfall to many small boat voyagers loath to tackle the sand bars and commercial traffic of Whangarei Harbor or the complexities of the island-studded Hauraki Gulf leading to Auckland. A clear run in, then a well-marked, well-lit channel leads to Opua, port of entry for the Bay of Islands. Here, no longer do vessels have to tie up three or four deep inside the Opua Wharf as we once did, or tie precariously to the single exposed customs berth at the wharf's end, as was the case for a while. Today, half of the new Opua Marina curved breakwater is reserved for quarantine, customs and immigration clearance. There is plenty of room for multiple vessels. Sometimes they come in so thick and fast that both sides of the breakwater are used. The customs office overlooks the Q Berth. Chief Customs Officer Allen Jones and his colleagues board new arrivals via the customs boat to deal with official paperwork and to welcome newcomers with an information packet.

After clearance has been granted, boats are required to vacate the breakwater to leave space for new arrivals. Many choose to tie up, hose down and plug in at the marina. Others pick up one of the scores of nearby moorings, or simply drop the hook a little further afield. Others head out into the Bay of Islands to anchor in some of the many sheltered bays.

Rested, some continue on down to Whangarei, Auckland, the Coromandel, Tauranga or to South Island ports. However, an increasing number of cruisers make Opua their base at least for a while, often buying a car and touring the country by road. The host of facilities that have grown up around the marina makes it possible to do all maintenance, repairs, refurbishing on the spot. There are riggers, sailmakers, chandleries, shipyards, e-mail facilities, painters, electricians, machine shops, outboard repair shops, as well as showers, laundromat and so on. The Opua Cruising Club still welcomes all comers. George and Dorothy Bateman still run Opua Sports Radio, even leaving Channel 16 on all night long to deal with emergencies. We met them when we first checked in to New Zealand in October '74 at a time when they somehow made a point of welcoming almost every overseas yacht.

Kiwi yacht clearing back home.

Allen Jones reports that in 2003, 479 vessels cleared in at Opua, while in 2002 the record Americas Cup year, 551 yachts chose to enter here. Besides Kiwis leaving and returning, many nationalities are represented in the fleet sailing to New Zealand (Australians, Americans, Canadians, British, Germans, Dutch, French, Swedish, Danish, Swiss and many others). Already in 2004 there have been a record number of cruising yachts for this time of year, checking both in, and out to head up to the various island-cruising paradises a mere week or two away.

We spent several days in Opua recently, anchored off Pine Island, seeing friends off. This season, it has been a rough bash to windward for many of the yachts perhaps overeager to escape unseasonably cold temperatures. Others, taking part in various cruising rallies, are sometimes tempted to leave in flocks in unsettled weather. Several boats, damaged by days of 25- to 35-knot headwinds, gusting considerably higher, limped back. One was dismasted. One or two reported in with forestay failure. Others had windvane steering gear breakage or autopilot failure--or both. A cruising catamaran suffered structural damage (cracked bridge deck, trampolines torn from the hulls). One yacht returned because the onboard computer crashed.

Mind you, it's not easy to outguess the gods in this part of the world, even when we think we've found the perfect weather window. Sometimes we wonder if it wasn't easier in the days before weather faxes, weather gurus and related weather anxieties when we looked out the porthole and left on a sunny day assured of favorable winds for at least ONE good day. Recently, three cases of shingles occurred on three different overseas cruising yachts preparing to head offshore. Who needs that stress? We've headed offshore, north from New Zealand, in various months from April to August and experienced far more good passages than otherwise. Nowadays we too watch the weather closely. The secret is not to have to keep to a schedule. We have a sign in MAGIC DRAGON saying,

The Plan
is to have
no Plan...

Just one or two points made by Allen Jones of NZ Customs: Information packs and entry documents can be picked up around the various Pacific Islands from Tahiti to New Caledonia. Wherever cruisers gather, there should be a pack available. Failing that, cruisers can complete most Customs arrival documents on line at http://www.customs.govt.nz/visitingcraft/small+craft+arrival/default.asp
to return by e-mail. This is becoming a more popular method and saves time on arrival. Hard copy forms for Quarantine and Immigration are still required but not as detailed as Customs documents. Finally, the matter of arrival times: Allen Jones says he appreciates notification of arrival dates/times. The use of Russell Radio on 4445HF/CH16VHF or Maritime Radio on CH16VHF to advise of imminent arrival (3-4 hours prior notice minimum) assists in a smooth entry to the port. During working hours Customs monitor CH16VHF and will advise on tidal flows to assist in berthing.