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Dec 20, 2005 - FIRST PASSAGE
by Al & Beth Liggett

 
  Al takes a noon site during their first circumnavigation aboard Bacchus.

When SetSail requested I write about our first passage, I immediately thought about the trip to the Bahamas in our first boat, Bacchus.

Historical background: Al had a 20-foot sloop when I met him – we went sailing on our first date! He also raced on bigger boats in Southern California a lot. Ladies could provide the lunch, but weren't included in the crew. I had only had one overnight sailing experience - helping take one of the race boats from Ensenada back to Newport Beach – before our first passage.

We bought our first boat in Annapolis, Maryland. Bacchus was a 40-foot wooden ketch, 7-foot draft, and slow. We had not sailed the boat much while getting her ready for the grand adventure of cruising. Coming from Annapolis to Florida, we mostly drove down the ICW, bouncing from hump to hump and plowing through the mud banks in some places. At least going aground held no terror for us after that!

I guess some things are indelibly etched forever in memory, but even I was surprised when I went back into the archives and re-read the letters home about that first trip – from West Palm Beach to Nassau in the Bahamas. The following excerpts were written in February 1967, when we had successfully arrived in Port Royal, Jamaica:

We sailed off into the Gulf Stream. Wouldn't you know – the wind was coming straight from the direction that we had planned on for our course! It was a lovely day, very clear and sparkling, with warm winds and sun that made it comfortable to do a bit of sunbathing as we sailed along. And best of all, the water was deep, deep, deep. No more worries about going aground out here!

I took the first watch, 6 to 9, since my stomach didn't relish the thought of going below even to sleep. When the sun at last faded I felt really alone. It was pitch black everywhere; not even the stars were out. It had become very overcast and cloudy. The wind had begun to pick up in velocity, and we were really moving along. I was kind of scared, never having sailed alone at night before. Then I felt better when I thought that if it was light - and I could see those swells that were pursuing me, and the heel of the boat - I might be even more scared!

We picked up some lights after midnight. We thought they must be West End as that was where we were heading. But the characteristics of what we saw didn't match up with the lights that were listed on our charts for West End. We hunted that light down and realized that we had been carried much further north by the Gulf Stream than we had allowed for. To reach West End we had to turn south. This was agreeable since there had been a gradual shift that would take us nicely in that direction. A bright glow on the horizon turned into the West End lights eventually, so at daybreak we had a nice visual fix to dead reckon from.

Squalls caused us to reef the mainsail and mizzen, easing the helm and the motion in general. I hadn't been able to sleep much; too much motion, too many new noises, too many things to think about I guess. I didn't feel too red hot either, although I wasn't actively sick. I usually could manage to put something in a pot and heat it up without problems, but generally would rather spend my time outside in the fresh air.

Bless Al – he would usually do the dishes!

Further on I wrote:

My last newsletter was filled with all the things that went wrong and problems that occurred; I didn't show much of the happier side of our new life. I vowed not to do this again, but some things do happen that should be reported. Our second night out was one of those.

I just got myself settled down trying to capture some non-existent sleep when Al yelled down at me to get on deck – IMMEDIATELY! He was frantically pulling stuff out of our aft compartment in the cockpit, and the sails were doing all sorts of weird things. I finally understood that the wheel wouldn't respond anymore at all. Al was trying to extract our emergency tiller from its buried depths in that locker. I was sent below for the necessary tools. After a few heroic moments the tiller was in place and secured.

Still there was no response. With the wheel not working, and the tiller not working, it could only mean that there was something wrong with the rudder. Did we even have a rudder? It was too dark to tell. Naturally all this was happening as we were approaching Great Stirrup Cay, the only land between us and Nassau. There was a very strong onshore wind blowing us right down upon it. What now?

Al decided that we could trim the sails and use them to steer us, if not to Nassau, at least away from danger! We started pulling the "strings" and were finally beginning to move again when – WHAP!! The tiller came whipping across the cockpit and got me right in the stomach! I didn't mind a bit, though, because it meant that there was a rudder down there after all, and that we now did have steerage!

Well, we did eventually get to Nassau – 186 miles in 50 hours. And continued sailing and cruising in the Bahamas - which didn't go too well as per these statistics from our log:

  • Nassau to Highborne Cay – 35 miles – took us 2 days! (we anchored right out in the middle of the Yellow Bank at night).
  • Highborne to Norman's Cay – 7 miles – one day. Weren't we lucky it was only 7 miles!
  • Georgetown to Clarencetown – 75 miles – 50 hours!
  • The best: Staniel to Georgetown in two fast hops with an overnight anchorage. "The best sailing we had the entire time we were cruising the Bahamas!"
  • And the worst (I will quote): "...The most terrible sail of all – 236 miles from Clarencetown to Great Inagua. Guess how long that took? Five of the longest days I have ever spent anywhere!"

I guess we had never learned to turn on the engine. I'm now amazed that we persevered through it all and eventually did circumnavigate in Bacchus. And that it only took us 3 years!

In contrast to the poor sailing in the Bahamas, we had a marvelous time doing other first-time things like learning to navigate in CLEAR waters while avoiding the reefs:

The water is very shallow – something we were used to after the Chesapeake and the Waterway. But we were NOT used to the clarity of the water. It was a tremendous shock the first time we sailed out of Nassau Harbor and all of a sudden found ourselves looking down at sand, grass, and coral. You've never seen the lead line heaved so fast in your life! But the reading was well over eighteen feet. It was simply amazing! From then on our eyes, plus the color variations, were the best way of finding our way around. We learned to see coral heads and distinguish their murky darkness from the brown bottom grass, or from cloud shadows. Pretty soon we could tell eighteen-foot green from twelve foot green, from lighter, shallower spots, and to recognize the deeper blue of good channels to run in. But somehow we never quite got over the feeling that we were sailing in someone's gorgeous green swimming pool!

Another first was learning to snorkel.

The clarity of the waters never ceased to amaze and delight us. Every color, shade, tint and hue of blue and green is represented in those waters, heightened by the clearness, and intensified by the sunlight. Descriptions do not do justice; just believe whatever you read or hear about those waters – it's unbelievably true! We began our skin diving and snorkeling experiences at Highborne Cay, an almost landlocked emerald pool. We rowed the dinghy out one morning to some likely looking coral spots to give it a whirl. Al grabbed his gear and went over the side. He was back on the surface almost instantly, and through his faceplate his eyes were wide and he was trying to gargle something to me out through the snorkel. Instant thoughts of sharks, eels, lobsters, even treasure flashed through my mind. But he finally managed to spit out the snorkel and gasp, "My God! It's BEAUTIFUL down there!"

Thirty-eight years later we are still snorkeling and reveling in how BEAUTIFUL it is down there!

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