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Dec. 26, 2005 - TSUNAMI -- ONE YEAR LATER
by Al & Beth Liggett


	The fuel dock didn't suffer much damage in the tsunami, but two boats ended up sunk behind it! The ketch Phoenix was raised, and is now over in Rebak Marina for rebuilding.

Today is the 26th of December.

In many parts of the world the day after Christmas is known as Boxing Day. I've heard different stories about why it is called Boxing Day - pack up all the Christmas Boxes, the day to give Boxes (or bonuses) to the servants, or Box up the "not quite right" gifts for returns to the stores.

However, today, the 26th of December, will probably always be known as Tsunami Day in the part of the world where we are.

One year ago a massive earthquake off the west coast of Sumatra formed a displacement of water that turned into tsunami waves. These waves devastated the shores of many Asian countries and caused the loss of well over 200,000 lives. The horror of those moments, the devastation of the property, the destruction of life, the shock of the survivors has all been well documented on TV and in the news and magazines.

A year ago we were anchored in front of the town of Kuah, in Langkawi, Malaysia. Although there was loss of life and property around us, Malaysia was spared the brunt of the tsunami disaster by its geography. Malaysia was lucky. As were we. Sunflower was safe (see our report of December 31, 2004).


*This is the resurected Something Special. She is indeed Special again!*

Not so for many of our friends who had their boats in 2 of the 3 marinas in Langkawi. Rebak Marina was totally wiped out - docks, pilings, everything. Boats were knocked about in a horrific whirlpool and shot out the entrance into the sea. Two boats were sunk. Others with severe damage were rescued and hauled immediately onto the hardstand at Rebak. Thank goodness the travel-lift had been spared.

At the brand new Telaga Harbor Marina the scene was essentially the same. The waves swirled into the enclosed basin, taking the boats, the docks (sometimes still tied to the boats), and anything floating back out the entrance into the sea. Three boats sunk and were a total loss; eight or ten others were holed and partially sunk, but repairable; scores more had various degrees of damage.

In Thailand the two marinas were spared this destruction. Boats that were anchored in deeper waters were hit with tremendous currents as the waves surged into the bays, but most remained unscathed. However, there are a great many areas on the coast that are shallow. Here the waves built up. Some boats were damaged by hitting the bottom when the water receded. One boat lost its mast when it hit the bottom and rolled the mast into the sand!

The personal stories were horrendous, yet heroic. It is truly miraculous that no lives were lost in these maelstroms of destruction at the marinas, and only minor injuries sustained by the people on boats.

Now it is one year later. Communities are rebuilding along the shores. The yachting community is rebuilding as well. We recently assessed the post-tsunami progress of the two marinas in Langkawi. Rebak Marina is privately owned. It has had a slow start in reconstruction, but now removal of the debris from the bottom has been completed and the dredging of the basin nearly finished. Reports are that the contractors will start setting the new pilings at the first of the year. This marina will be substantially expanded from its former configuration, providing berths for 180 boats when finished. Estimates say that will be in April 2006. We think it will take longer.

Telaga Harbor Marina is government-owned. Recovery here has been much quicker. Most of the pilings were not damaged by the tsunami, so presumably were able to be reused. Two-thirds of the marina is up and running now. The size of the berths has been increased with the new pontoons. This is a definite improvement over the previous installation that had a majority of the berths only 20-30 feet long. Here also new configurations of pontoons and berths have been built. When the final section of docks is installed, there will be berths for 185 yachts.

One of the new pontoons at Telaga Marina with larger berths than before. You can see the set of pilings waiting for the last section of docks to be built. Telaga opened in November, 2005, for yachting business again. Many of the boats that had been washed away had already made berthing commitments there and had paid up bething before the tsunami. This was all honored by the Marina, and those boats moved back.

When we cruised north to Phuket last October, we anchored at PhiPhi Island. We hadn't been there since the tsunami. The island is shaped like a skewed letter H, with the hotels, main settlement and tourist services straddling the cross piece. At least, they used to be. PhiPhi was one of the worst-hit areas by the tsunami last December. First thing we noticed is that you can now see right through the palms from our spot in Tong Sa Bay all the way across the isthmus of the H to the other side. There wasn't much at all left on the near side of the bay. The small health clinic was being rebuilt as a larger hospital.


	Beth admires the food at Ao Sane's on Christmas Eve. Such a variety of delicious items, displayed with artistic brillance, has attracted yachties and locals for years. Ao Sane's was totally wiped out in the tsunami, now completely rebuilt.

We hadn't been ashore in PhiPhi for maybe two years or more. The number of tourists and all the tourist hype that used to be there was just too overwhelming, too noisy, for comfort. So it was a little hard for us to tell what was new construction, what was gone (except for the whole middle part of the island) and what has been rebuilt or repaired. I must say that everything seemed to gleam with new paint. There were some tourists around, even that early in the season, and the same old ticky tacky junky stuff in the shops. Many of the dive shops were back in operation; tour boats were making the daily run from Phuket. But we weren't bothered in the anchorage by the usual hordes of noisy longtail boats, and none of the speed boats were operating. I hated to see them losing their livelihood, but it made our anchorage there peaceful again - almost like it had been on our first visit to PhiPhi back in 1991.

Now, the 26th of December, we are anchored in Nai Harn Bay, Phuket, Thailand. Al counted 83 boats at anchor here this morning. It would have been the same a year ago. Several of our dear friends were anchored here when the tsunami struck. They were all fine. It is amazing to visually think of what the waves did ashore in this particular bay. Ao Sane's, a landing spot for dinghies and a restaurant popular with the yachties, was swept away. Only the concrete foundation was left. We were told that the traditional Thai Spirit House (for daily offerings) sitting to the side of the restaurant in a tree, was spared. Interesting...With yachtie help, AO Sane's was in business again just ten days later. By this year's annual Christmas Eve dinner, it was fully rebuilt. The dinner was terrific!

Ceremonies are being held all along the west coast of Thailand today to mark the anniversary of the tsunami. Here in Nai Harn I can see a gathering of monks near the edge of the water on the beach. They are putting candles, incense, and flowers down while praying and chanting. A small crowd has gathered. It is 10:10 AM - the same time that the first of the great waves swept into the bay. Today there is just a small surf-break on shore.