April 24, 2002 - Hello From Al and Beth
(This letter was sent from the Chagos Archipelago via Ham-based email to a friend, who forwarded it to SetSail.)

Hello Everyone!

Happy Birthday Caroline! We hope you are celebrating in fine style this year with good company, good things to eat, and lots of fun and laughter. I had mine here in Chagos in company of 18 other yachtie friends. The weather and tides were wrong for a beach party so we all gathered on Sunflower's foredeck and did the cake and candles bit. Then a spit of rain drove us all back under the awning, into the cockpit, to continue with rum punch, sea stories, and rock and roll dancing. Alas, the dance floor was a TAD small!

It is hard to believe that we have been in Chagos for over two months now. We have been in Peros Banhos Atoll, which has numerous small islands around the 10 mile diameter reef. We have had 11 different anchorages along the western side; the eastern islands are off-limits to yachts, as that area is a strict nature reserve. And even though there have been an average of about 24 boats at this atoll, we have all been so spread out that it does not seem crowded.

It is wonderful to be able to snorkle in such clear waters. The corals aren't much to look at - they took a massive hit during the El Nino warming and haven't recovered. But the fish...!!! Really, it's like swimming in an aquarium! We continue to be astounded, amazed, surprised, and amused at the variety of shapes and colors of tropical fish. It's UNREAL! Even though we thrill to the glory of swimming with such beauty, our eyes continue to seek out the fish we like to go after with our lines. Snorkling has become "window shopping" with a different point of view!

Fishing is a prime occupation, though we have been so successful that we don't really spend much time with it anymore. Two days ago we changed anchorages - just 3 miles. Caught a 3.5 Kilo green job fish trolling with our usual fishing line on the way. Great eating - part of the snapper family. This morning we dragged our favorite silver spoon behind the dinghy while we were enroute to a friend's boat and caught a nice yellow spotted trevally. Less than 10 minutes. And we have fish in the freezer from past successes as well. I also have dried fish; it's like a jerky - marinated in soy and garlic and other stuff, that we eat for snacks. And it seems the rage this time round is pickled fish. I think I'm spared the effort as Al doesn't really like pickled fish.

The weather has been mostly OK. We had a tropical cyclone pass well to the south of Chagos that gave us 6 days of really pukey weather - lots of squalls with winds up to 48 knots, rain, grey skies. We were marooned on board the boat for that time; it was even too nasty to go visiting between boats. Just now it is a transition period between Monsoons. Winds are trying to switch to the SE. We have calm HOT days, or days with winds that are all over the place. Can be uncomfortable when they blow up from an unprotected direction. There's been quite a bit of rain too. We haven't had to worry about our water tanks, have had lots extra for showers and laundry and general washing down.

When the weather finally settles solidly into the SE quadrant for good we will make a move over to Salomon Atoll. Hate to go too soon as it is a much smaller atoll (3 mi. diameter)and right now there are about 35 yachts anchored there, so is probably quite crowded feeling. We will spend the rest of our time there until we make the voyage back to Thailand/Malaysia. Probably mid-June.

That's it from Paradise, folks! We're taking our curried fish and rice to the beach in a few moments to join some friends for a sundown supper. We certainly wish you could be with us to share it.

We send lots of love, Al and Beth

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