Last August we hauled DRIVER out of the water, buttoned her up, and left northern Norway to fly back to the States (see The Martins Have Landed #1.)

Leaving DRIVER behind to repatriate ourselves seemed like a good idea at the time. We thought we would spend a few years in Colorado, and find The Next Thing. In ordinary language this means we didn't have a clue what we wanted to do, but we hoped we would figure it out. By midwinter we began to grow restless with life in the Rockies. We missed the smell of the ocean, and the look of seaweed on low tide rocks.

We were sipping glasses of beer one night in an Avon pub when Jaja suggested we return to DRIVER, and sail her back to the US via Iceland, Greenland, and Newfoundland.

"I'll order the tickets," I said.

Air travel is usually a streamlined endeavor. You buy the tickets, pack your bags, and get to the airport on time to check in. We managed to do all of the above, and found ourselves standing in line at the Denver airport on June 10th. Ahead of us was a 30 hour trip to northern Norway via Chicago, Amsterdam, Oslo, Bod¿. Our final destination was the town of Svolvaer, where DRIVER was waiting for us.

For this voyage, we wanted to bring a rifle with us for protection against the polar bears in Greenland. Before we actually bought a gun I called United Airlines to see if it was possible to bring one on the plane. I was informed that as long as the gun was in a hard, locking case, it would be no problem to check it through. All I had to do was open the case for the clerk, let them see it was not loaded, and pack the bullets in a separate suitcase. No problem. I asked if we needed a special permit or something. No. Just a driver's license. We bought the gun: a Marlin 45-70, lever action, stainless steel rifle.

I anticipated having problems while overseas. Would a US driver's license and passport satisfy foreign custom officials as proof of gun ownership? Probably not. I went to the local sheriffs office looking for any sort of document that indicated we legally owned our gun. We were told we could register it, but that we wouldn't get a card or anything. I called the local police. They did not give out registration cards. I decided to take matters into my own hands. Using my laptop I created two cards with our names, date of birth, the serial number of the gun, and it's make. At the top of the card I put: "United States of America Gun Registration Card". I printed the cards out, we signed them, and Jaja laminated them at work. They fit into our wallets like credit cards.

At the check in counter in Denver the lady processed our tickets, then asked me to put our bags on the conveyer belt.

"We have a gun," I said, holding up the shiny black gun case.

"A gun?" she gave us an incredulous look, then began typing frantically on her computer. "I'm sorry," she said at last. "You can't check a gun in with United Airlines."

After almost two hours of patient explanations, phone calls to various customs offices, and several consultations with the "in house" customs officials, Jaja became livid. "My husband called the airlines! When they said it was OK, that's when we bought the gun. Do you think we would have bought a gun if it was impossible to bring it?"

"I'm afraid we are going to have the confiscate your weapon." The lady said. "Can't we have a friend come pick it up?" "No. I will give it to the police and they will destroy it for you." "The gun is brand new!" Jaja stormed. "I'd rather go out to the departure area and give it away!" "I'm afraid that would be illegal. You will probably be arrested."

I tried using logic, but I forgot I was dealing with airline procedure. I said, "Why would a United Airline phone operator tell me I could bring a gun if, in fact, it is impossible."

Finally, a phone call was made to the right person - in San Francisco - and we were magically able to check in our gun. Almost.

"I need to see some identification that shows proof of ownership, then we'll be on our way," the clerk growled.

I gave her my driver's license.

Another phone call. "I'm sorry, but a driver's license is not sufficient proof of ownership. Do you have a gun registration card?"

Jaja and I smiled at each other, and presented our Gun Registration Cards to the attendant.

"OK," the clerk said. "Everything seems to be in order. Now you will be allowed to check the gun with the rest of your luggage."

We hurried to our gate.