September 18, 2002

Hi SetSail,

Sorry it's taken so long to find a computer. We've been in Newfoundland since the 5th of September but one thing has led to the next. Libraries closed, networks down...

Anyway, a brief update!

As August came to an end in Greenland we thought we would never get away. Gale after gale came roaring up from Newfoundland - often blowing 50 knots plus. We like adventure but we are not so stupud as to head offshore knowing we will get slammed. On Sunday, the first of September, it looked like we would have a 5 day weather window, so we went for it across Davis Strait. After we cleared the coastal icebergs (about 35 miles offshore) we had clear sea with no evidence of growlers. As dark fell on the first night DRIVER was close hauled doing 7 knots. We thought about stray ice chunks but kept sailing. A regular steam roller. After 36 hours we were nearly half way across the Strait. Then the wind died. Motor on. We had light headwinds so we motored off and on for 2 and a half days. As we neared the Labrador coast another gale was forecast so instead of continuing to Newfoundland, we found a safe anchorage about a hundred miles north of Belle Isle Strait. Twenty-four hours later, 35 to 40 knots churned the seas but we were anchored safely. We had made the 560 mile crossing from Greenland to Labrador in 4 days flat.

After the gale we continued south to Battle Harbor. Early the next mooring we started down Belle Isle Strait but only made 50 miles before a raging sou'wester blew up. We took refuge in Red Bay. By midnight the wind had backed to the northwest so we continued another 80 miles to Port Saunders on Newfoundland's West Coast. Another southwest gale kept us holed up to 36 hours. During the next round of northwesterlies we made it another 50 miles south to Bonne Bay. Now they were talking about the remnants of hurricane Gustav crossing over Newfoundland. Great. We survived the gales of the Norwegian Sea, Iceland, the Denmark Straits, and Davis Strait, only to get a hurricane. We deployed our 70 pound Luke Fisherman anchor and 200 feet of 5/16 chain in Norris Cove. On Thursday night the wind was nor'east at 40 knots and by morning gusts were ranging into the bay at 70 plus knots. One gust in particular knocked DRIVER over to 45 degrees. The stantions plunged under, and water covered the windows. Awesome. The problem with riding out a hurricane at anchor is you are always worried about dragging anchor. It would probably be exciting if it weren't for that. But the Fisherman held.

We'd been using the Luke anchor on a regular basis since Greenland where unexpected gales ripped down the fjords at whim. You get used to a big anchor. Using the Luke is like putting down a mooring every night. We slept well.

Our original plan was to winter over in Maine. But we pulled into the Allen Cove Marina, near Corner Brook, in Newfoundland's Bay of Islands. Great spot. Showers, laundry, and we can live aboard here all winter for only 300 dollars. That's 300 dollars for September through June. Not a bad price...

Although we've only been here three days, Chris, Holly, and Teiga all began school ashore today. The bus picks them up at the marina and then brings them home. Tomorrow I have to go to immigration to tell them that (I mean ask them if) we are staying...They have all sorts of new immigration policies so I suspect we might have problems. What would cruising be without immigration problems? I have no idea.

More to follow...