The Tropical island of St Helena is situated on latitude 16 S and longitude 5 45 W. 122km squared. 1900nm from Cape Town & 1900nm to Brazil.

There is something so satisfying about seeing a piece of land, where it should be. Since this is the 1st leg of our Circumnavigation, and today is my birthday, 1 May, what a gift! Here we are halfway between 2 continents with more than one cause to celebrate, and there is not a beach in sight; in fact, not one on the island, with the lowest landing point at James Bay, 5m above sea level.

No dinghies allowed; a ferry operates 24hrs, and he brings George the Customs Officer before the anchor even leaves the boat.

He and the rest of the islanders had watched our approach all day and could hardly restrain themselves from meeting the new people.

A moment's silence ensues as he studies our boat, and then exclaims, "Aha, Time! There is no time here. We haven't had time on St Helena since...the beginning of time."

Chris and I give each other that look, the one that says "Profound!...Don't laugh!"

Old tortoise in St. Helena.

George winks and points to our herb garden with thyme, basil, rosemary and aloe flourishing, and says, "that can't go ashore, but you can. Come, let me introduce you to everyone." We board the ferry that had been tied alongside as not to exclude the ferryman, and head for the Wharf.

5m of solid rock, right angles another sheer cliff, exposed to the open surging Atlantic Ocean. Two ferries fit in one behind the other, just! A step has been cut out, to land, but is always awash, so, "Grab one of the many ropes hanging off the cliff," says George, as we take our first foot step on land in 18 days.

St. Helena has a population of 6000, each one friendlier than the next. Only one prisoner in the unlocked jail, and you can visit him, or sign him out on Sundays for the day. "He has issues with fire," says George, "as he set the school bus alight. No serious crime here, no theft either, no point really, we all know each other, and who owns what."

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Short extract from: "St Helena Newsletter" -Police Activity Report for 1st-7th May.

Have a pleasant weekend.
C.W. Roberts C.P.L.S.M Ag Inspector of Police

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Yes, there are still places like this left in the world, even if they are in the forgotten South Atlantic. (I have attached "Old Steamer's" letter to the editor to the end of this article. He is 90-something and has never left the island. He says it all!)

1939 Chevy rental in St. Helena.

The RMS St Helena arrives once a month and brings supplies from Britain at Sainsbury prices. George is the crane driver of the "Air Bus" that offloads the ship. Nothing is produced or cultivated here. Everything cost £. As George explains that it will cost £17 for the boat and £11 per person for 1 day or 1 year, however long we'd like to stay. At £1 a beer, 80p for bread, and no fresh produce, not for long. He shows us the Government building, where we must pay tomorrow, because today is Monday. St Helena doesn't work on Mondays. All except George, who also wants to be Mayor.

The island has a long history dating back to 1502. Captain Thomas Cavendish, Captain Cook and Captain Bligh all visited. Edward Halley observed the transit of Mercury and Venus from a stone-built observatory. Most famous perhaps, in 1815 Napoleon was exiled to the island after his defeat at the battle of Waterloo. He lived well with an entourage of 50 servants; they had orchards and vegetable gardens. He built a hot air balloon in an attempt to escape 2 French Ships were sitting off the horizon waiting for him. He died on the island after 7 years and his body was exhumed 20 years later and returned to France.

The Saints, as they call themselves, also have one of the oldest tortoises alive. He lives at the Governor's House, and is said to be over 250 years old.

In the early 1900's 2 ships sank in James Bay, and they make safe, easy diving. The island has no tourism, so getting around proves to be half the fun; George organises us a car. A 1925 Chevy Pick-up. Cars going downhill give way to those going up with a 20mph speed limit.

If George wants to be the Mayor, he has certainly got our vote.

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St Helena News. Volume 1 no 33 12 May 2000

Dear Editor,
The other day I was damn nearly struck off my feet by a pedalist as I was walking down the Grande Parade. The beast on 2 wheels whizzed silently past me as I was turning to go into the Government, for some reason, which eludes me at present. There was no bell or claxon to warn me of the approach of this bicycle event, no shout, no indication whatsoever that an impending collision might occur. I had of course forgotten that the Government knocks off at 4 and climbs the Ladder to get home. Nevertheless, this impudent young puppy on his steel horse very nearly put an end to my days and sailed on oblivious to my distress, through the Arch and round the bend. In my younger days I would have given chase and chastisement. Are there no regulations in place to ensure that bicycles are properly fitted with adequate warning systems and lighting, not to mention breaks? I remember cycling in the Tyrol with my sister back in the 30's, it is an activity much to be recommended, when done with a sense of safety, care and consideration. It seems to me that standards have slipped in this area. Had it not been for my Malacca cane I should certainly not have been able to deliver this tirade. One wonders what the Police department are doing to curb these errant knights!
Yours humbly,
Old Steamer

	Departing view of St. Helena.