Church of the Sacred Heart.

September 30, 2001 - Wallis - Fancy a Yacht Race?

It is difficult to get around Wallis, as there is no public transport at all. So four yachts clubbed together, and one Sunday persuaded a Wallisian to drive us around the island in his flatbed truck.

	Preparing to race.

Wallis has 12 churches, every one of which is large and highly decorative and on Sundays rings with the sound of beautifully melodic Polynesian singing several times a day. Therefore, our first stop was to one of the services. The Church of the Sacred Heart has one of the most impressive bell towers we have ever seen, surpassed only by the friendliness of our welcome inside.

We watched the service and then continued our tour, happening upon a village in the process of organizing a Sunday race between three sail-rigged outrigger canoes. We were offered a crew position and Brian won the toss so Colleen got the job of cheering enthusiastically.

Brian racing on an outrigger canoe.

The outriggers are quite easy to sail, all you need are 10 huge Wallisian men for each canoe. They manhandle the mast into the mast step at the front of the boat, haul up the mast, gaff and boom, comprising 20 to 30 foot long, 5-inch diameter logs to which the sail is permanently lashed. No reefing for these guys! No winches or cleats either, ropes are lashed to the crossbeams.

The outriggers are then shoved off the beach and reach at huge speed across the lagoon. As gusts haul the windward float out of the water, everyone rushes upwind to get it back down. After each rush it is important to scream and cheer at the top of your voice. Sail trimming involves at least five men on the "sheet", heaving away in unison.

The boats were run straight up the beach on the opposite island. To reach back the whole rig is lowered, carried to the other end of the canoe and reset for the blast back, all of which happens in a serene and peaceful manner--not! How falling spars did not kill Brian is anyone's guess. First one back to the start beach wins.

We thought we were going to spend our Sunday away from boats but this was too good an opportunity to pass up, as indeed was our visit to Wallis.