August 30, 2002
WILDLIFE CRUISING COMPANIONS

They described languorous arcs, lazily lifting a tail fin as they slid below the surface, then signaling their return with a double-barreled spout. As their huge bodies submerged, they left an oily pool of water, as if shocked into respectful stillness by the presence of such mighty creatures. Though they moved more slowly than the playful dolphins that have been our companions so far, they were no less agile. Fluked tails waved farewell, heads were proudly lifted high out of the water and flippers hailed a salutation. By comparison with their dignified display, we leapt about whooping and squealing in delight.

One of the pod came over to give us a closer look and sounded right alongside us. We held our breath as it disappeared below the hull and exhaled in unison with the spout of the whale as it emerged just off our stern.

It is such a delight to make contact with sea creatures; perhaps it is because it makes us feel we are not alone out there. Occasionally we make very close contact, like when sea lions in the Galapagos decided our swim step was a great place to sunbathe for the afternoon.

Seabirds are terrific companions too. Nothing prepares you for the size of the first albatross to fly in the air wake of your boat. And the sight of tropic birds long before you spot land is more reassuring than any dead reckoning plot or GPS ETA.

However, as much as we love to be accompanied by sea birds, they can be a real nuisance when they perch on top of the mast. Apart from droppings staining decks and awnings, the birds can do serious damage to the wind instruments. And looking up with your mouth open is always a worry. It is not only at anchor or in harbour that they perch there. A booby hitched a ride on our mast from Cartegena to the San Blas islands (200 nm) and would not budge despite repeated tweaking of the runners and a lightning storm overnight.

The Theta Volantis Bird Stowaway Deterrent (patent pending)

After a crow pulled off one of our Windex vanes, and a booby chewed a hole in the B&G vane, we resorted to rigging various bird deterrents. First we glue a large nail to the top of the navigation light to stop them landing on it. Second, we run thin rope in a cat's cradle arrangement around the various fittings to make it as difficult as possible for them to gain or retain a comfortable position.

We encountered another bird problem when anchored off an island in Venezuela. Unbeknown to us a pair of birds nested in our mizzen boon. We only discovered it when we removed the sail cover and saw the thatch of twigs and grasses tucked in the end of the boom. We guiltily removed it and were chastised by the two squawking swooping birds, and hastily left the anchorage. However as we passed around the south side of the island, the birds spotted us crossing in front of a saddle between the two hills that comprised the island. They flew out to the boat and piled guilt upon guilt with their distressed cries. So now when anchored for any time near prolific bird life we stuff a dish towel in the boom end.

We are more than content to confine our bird watching to observing them on the wing or for excursions ashore, like these frigate birds in Galapagos.