August 10, 2001 - New Potatoes in Tonga

We visited Tonga in 1999 en route through the Pacific to New Zealand. Although this year we are in search of pastures new, it seemed foolish to sail straight past Tonga on our way to Samoa, so we stopped off in Vava'u. Though we hate the use of numbers to describe anchorages (the Moorings chart and pilot for the area numbers each of the anchorages), the anchorages are very good and we enjoyed several pleasant days there. Vava'u is a busy charter boat center so many of the anchorages are endowed with a restaurant or a weekly local feast. It's all good fun and got us back into tropical cruising again, but it is not really what we look for when cruising.

Before leaving Tonga altogether we thought the tiny island of Nuiatoputapu lying 160 miles north of Vava'u (still part of the Kingdom of Tonga) might be worth a visit. Its name is almost unpronounceable but sounds close enough to new potatoes to be a widely recognized solecism. Fortunately for yachts, Nuiatoputapu has a marked entrance through the reef and a safe and calm anchorage inside the outer reef.

Hardly any visitors make it to Nuiatoputapu. Even Lonely Planet advises that the ferry (known as the "Orange Vomit") trip is a bit of a challenge and there are no tourist facilities. So cruisers have a particular advantage and from June to November a tiny trickle of yachts calls here. The local people are terrific, very friendly and welcoming and though they have a very basic lifestyle they willingly share what they have. We happened upon a feast to celebrate the building of a church and were offered hunks of freshly roasted pig and smoky baked taro, just cooked in an Umu (an underground oven). Delicious.

A supply ship calls once every 3 months, arriving while we were there. By this time there was no flour left on the island (and almost nothing else) and there had been none for some time. The arrival of the ship drew the entire population to the dock and we joined the throng on the quayside: dodging manic forklifts, peering at squealing pigs in cages made from branches, and wide eyed at the huge taro roots bundled up ready for export. It was impossible not to share the excitement.

One of the big treats was the arrival of ice cream; although, as most people live without power, there are few freezers on the island. So the yachts were able to help out. Those with freezers stored ice cream, which was collected next day, and none of us had the heart to steal a scoop for ourselves.

NOTES

Entry Requirements:

Nuiatoputapu is an official port of entry/departure. If it is your first port of arrival in Tonga, you must clear in.

If you leave from Vava'u you can clear out in Neiafu (Vava'u) and ask for a clearance to your next port via Nuiatoputapu. We were told we would not then need to contact customs in Nuiatoputapu. In reality the local officials do expect you to make your presence known. With so few visitors to the island who can blame them for wanting to get involved. No charges were made for this.

Navigation

The entrance is fairly straightforward but we would only enter in daylight. There are two posts at the start of the channel not marked on our charts. From a distance their rust stains can make them look like red marks but you enter between them and then pick up the red/green channel marks. Holding is good in 30 feet.

Facilities

None. Plan to be self-sufficient. The islanders have barely enough for their own needs so it is better not to buy any of their limited supplies. There is no fuel or water available. Fishing (rod and spear fishing) is productive.

Consider taking some things to offer as gifts - food, books for the school - as these are more valuable than money if you want to repay a kindness.