It is relatively unusual for yachts to head for destinations that are more normally associated with river traffic than ocean traffic. One exception is Borneo.

	River boat trip in Borneo

Conrad romanticized the island's river culture and explorers have waxed lyrical over the diversity of the island's wildlife, so we decided to venture into Borneo's interior as far as we could in THETA VOLANTIS and thereafter in a local boat.

Our arrival had been difficult (see Dec. 11, 2002 article, Electronics: Using them and losing them) but evocatively scene-setting. Swirling banks of smoky fog engulfed the river banks and we could sense the wild jungle beyond. The only way to explore the interior of Borneo is by boat, but not one with an 8-foot draft and 22 metre air draft.

Welcome party on the river bank

In THETA VOLANTIS we motored 17 miles up the river until we reached the small town of Kumai. As we dropped the anchor a river dolphin appeared alongside the boat as if to confirm the diversity of the island's flora and fauna. Local cargo boats were unloading their goods on the wharf--fruit and vegetables from Java--and reloading with timber.

Without difficulty we rented a local boat to take us farther up river into the Tanjung Puting National Park for a two-day trip. Our boat arrived to collect us next morning complete with a captain, deck hand, cook, boat boy and well informed guide, and left behind a boat sitter to take care of our boat in our absence.

Almost immediately we fell under the spell of the jungle trimmed river. Huge hornbills swooped across our path and vivid blue kingfishers flashed in front of us. The river turned from a deep chocolate colour to a swirling cappuccino as we entered a narrow tributary and the jungle began to encroach even further.

At this width black tailed Macaque monkeys were now able to leap across the river while proboscis monkeys stared at us imperiously down their absurdly long noses. We were torn between monkey watching and spotting crocodiles, as they slid into the water from the muddy banks.

	Python curled in the tree under which we ate lunch

Stopping under a tree for lunch we were entertained by a python curled up in the branches above our heads and a cacophony of jungle noises.

We were delighted when we saw our first wild orangutans swing gracefully down to the water and rushed to snap photographs. Our guide assured us we would see more of these creatures and at much closer range but we took no chances and snapped away.

Our final destination was Camp Leakey, an orangutan research station. Over the years there have been a number of orangutans cared for at the camp, injured or orphaned creatures. As a consequence a troupe of them now live around the camp and the rangers place food out for them each day. The food is only a small proportion of what they require, so they forage for most of their daily intake.

Close up to a full size male orangutan

The benefit to us was that we were able to see the orangutans close up and were especially fortunate because on the day of our trip the Alpha male decided to pay the camp a visit. As 250 kg of solid muscle pounded towards us we bid a judicious retreat in awe of the blatant power of this beast. His intent was to scare off another male from his group of females, and thankfully he passed by us a couple of feet away as if we weren't there. However we did make sure he had a clear route through!

We spent the night on the river sleeping under the stars (and a mosquito net) listening to the jungle orchestra before returning down the river next day.

Our crew were terrific, the food exceptional, our guide's knowledge of the wildlife encyclopedic. It is hard to imagine a more exotic and magical experience.

	Colleen makes friends with an orangutan

NOTES:

Location: Kumai, south west Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo)

Guide: Herry, who will also arrange the boat, crew etc. borneowilderness@hotmail.com

Facilities: Fuel is available, you can get laundry done, there is a fresh produce market.

Procedures: Make sure Kumai is on your CAIT (Indonesian cruising permit).