The traditional routes for yachts making a circumnavigation are dominated by downwind sailing. Not so the Red Sea with predominantly northerly winds, and wind strengths averaging 20 knots or more. The stresses on boats and crew are legend and the Maldives is where crews do their last rig checks, maintenance routines, and bottom hull inspections. The last opportunity to do major work is long past but by the time yachts reach the Maldives they have sailed across most of the Indian Ocean (yachts generally do their fit out work in Thailand and Langkawi, Malaysia) so last-minute checks are an important precaution.

This year the threat of war in Iraq was an added concern. Not that anyone thought we might become military targets, but we did not know how we would be welcomed in the ports of the Middle East, nor whether we would become targets for the anger of the Middle East Countries while at sea.

So fuel tanks were filled to brimming and radio schedules exchanged before yachts set off. From the Maldives boats either head straight for the Gulf, as we did, or they called first in Oman for a final refuelling and to gather together with their convoy buddies.

In February this year a poster on the wall in the Uligan harbour office stated some interesting statistics. Ten years ago, 30 boats cleared here, rising to a maximum of 85 in 1998. This year 70 boats had cleared by 14 February, and we knew of several yet to arrive, and yet more passed the Maldives by. So well over 100 yachts were planning to sail up the Red Sea this year.

However before setting off on the next stage of our cruise, time spent in the Maldives was very enjoyable. It was the last tropical warm water swim that we had (the Red Sea is much colder and we are finding the Med very chilly) and we particularly enjoyed the peace of Uligan, which is in the north of the Maldives, and is not at all developed.

Historically yachts had to go to Malle at the southern end of the island chain. However Uligan is now a full clearing port for yachts, with Customs, Immigration, Security and Port officers on site. Although six officials visited and searched the boat when we arrived, they were the most charming and courteous officials we have met.

The same was true ashore. Uligan is a small Muslim village, and everyone gave us a warm welcome, inviting us into their homes for warm sweet tea and cake, making us feel remote from the threat of war and piracy despite being about to head into the heart of it.