1. Collect fresh vegetables.

August 24, 2001 - Polynesian Cooking - Umu Style

One of the delights of cruising (for us at least) is trying new foods. As soon as you go tropical you learn a 100 ways to cook and eat coconut and even more things to do with a banana. When you get really savvy you can tell the difference between a banana and a plantain and may even know that bananas grow pointing upwards whereas plantains grow pointing downwards.

2. Dig hole in ground, fill with branches and rocks. Light the fire to heat the rocks.

Once past the basics, investigating the great variety of starchy vegetables is the next challenge - bulbous ugly lumps, long roots that look like an elephants leg - all taste delicious when served locally but until you get the hang of cooking them they can be indigestibly stodgy. Breadfruits in particular need a very generous input of butter, oil or yogurt.

	3. Place in food, cover with palm leaves and sacks.

In the South Pacific, taro is an important food source. Though smaller than the giant yams we see in the market, it is far more nutritious. Whenever we are walking near homes we see taro growing. The plant grows to about 3 feet and has large elephant-ear green leaves. Under each plant are several edible bulbs that can be removed as required.

4. Cover with earth and leave for 2-3 hours. Dog optional.

Taro can be boiled or baked but the way to really appreciate this dish is to have it cooked the traditional Polynesian way, in an Umu. We were invited to watch an Umu being prepared in Tonga and then to enjoy the food and share a bowl of Kava.

	5. Uncover carefully.

An Umu is a pit in which a fire is built and covered with rocks. When the fire burns down, the hot rocks are left and the food is placed on the rocks to cook. As well as taro and other vegetables, the Polynesians wrap fish smothered in coconut in banana leaves and along with pieces of pork these are placed on the stones. Our host Lomio showed us how they then cover the food with banana leaves and finally soil.

6. Remove food and place into servers.

Lomio had just returned from 2 years living and working in Australia. The traditional Umu food was one of the things he had missed and we could see it was not just for the food itself but for the fact that it is a communal meal. Everyone works together to make the oven and prepare the food; it is a social occasion bringing the family or village together.

After 2 hours of slow cooking Lomio removed the soil and leaves to allow the wonderful aroma of the food to escape. We helped him pile the food into baskets woven from banana leaves.

Not only did the slow cooking mean that the food was thoroughly cooked but it also retained all of its moisture so was succulent and full of flavour. The food had a smoky earthy flavour that was just delicious.

Now as for the Kava, clearly it is an acquired taste. The best we can say is that we enjoyed it about as much as a Polynesian would enjoy a glass of Campari. As for its narcotic qualities perhaps that is also something one needs to learn to acquire. Apart from making our lips numb we were not able to notice any discernible effect but perhaps that is too many years of imbibing stronger stuff.

	7. Eat and drink too much.		8. Sit around drinking kava and singing.