Malta's capital city Valetta. Knowing that for centuries the imposing citadel has been sailor's first sight of Malta marks Valetta as one of the world's most evocative arrivals.

There is something special about arriving by boat. It's not just the relief that the passage has been safely completed, nor is it just eagerness to get ashore for a cold beer/hot shower/fresh bread or whatever else is a high priority at the time.

An arrival by yacht is a gradual process. First the outline of land appears, then slowly the colours fill in, specific shapes take form, significant structures are identified - and it all happens at a pace that allows you to savour and contemplate the experience and the various sights as they emerge.

You get a sense of the place from its overall shape, down to the smells and noises that are emitted. And by building it up slowly no one sight/smell/noise skews your first impressions. Compare it to an arrival by plane where you are transported from a nowhereland mid-air to the airport runway in a matter of minutes and your first impressions are of the inside of an airport.

If you talk to cruisers about their sailing experiences they will often relate stories of arrivals. Because these are often the most poignant memories.

It is a special treat when an arrival port is particularly dramatic or distinctive, as is the case with Valetta Harbour in Malta. This ancient port has been guarded by forts for many centuries and the capital in still contained within the old town walls. We arrived early in the morning and as the rising sun lit up the citadel it had a mystical aura, as if its history was glowing from within the stonework.

Wandering through the tight little streets of Valetta is like being transported back in time.

Malta has a fascinating past, much of which revolves around wars. From the Knights of St. John to the allied forces in WW2, the fortifications have protected the Maltese through bombardment and sieges. It's amazing any of the old structures are still standing and without doubt if a nation ever deserved to be awarded the St. George's Cross it was Malta. Wandering through the tight little streets of Valetta is like being transported back in time.

There is some limited cruising to be had around Malta, but we left the boat in the main harbour between Valetta, the capital, and Silema. Malta is a small island and we were able to tour it by renting a car for a couple of days.

Many yachts winter in Malta because it has a dry, almost desert, climate. There are yards that can lift yachts and everyone speaks English, which makes it easy for English speakers wanting to carry out maintenance work. Also at the time of writing Malta is not part of the EC, making it a useful base for non-EC-tax-paid boats. However Malta is due to join in 2004. No one is yet sure how the tax rules will be enforced.

Notes

A few contact addresses are given below, which may be useful to those planning a visit.

(SetSail note: Colleen and Brian have finished their circumnavigation, and their beloved THETA VOLANTIS is now for sale. Even if you're not in the market for a new boat, click here to check out a very detailed listing that is full of interesting information.)