Vailima house.

August 31, 2001 - Independent Samoa

Samoans are some of the friendliest people we have met on our travels. So it didn't surprise us to learn that they took to their hearts a man who lived here for only five years, but who used his influence to argue for the rights of the Samoans to self government at a time when Britain, Germany and the US were squabbling over who should control the islands. He was loved not just for his political stance but also because of his talent for story telling--Samoans refer to him as Tusitala, teller of tales--while we call him Robert Louis Stevenson, author of books such as Treasure Island and Kidnapped.

Vailima, his former home on Samoa, has been restored with obvious devotion and touching detail, and is now a museum and shrine to this creator of adventure stories. We enjoyed eating our picnic lunch in the shade afforded by the fabulous tropical gardens surrounding the house.

Colleen in dugout canoe.

One wing of Vailima houses a photographic exhibition. We expected the usual array of historical snaps: famous visitors to the island, "then and now" type scenes. In some ways our expectations of stereotypical material was met, but not quite as we had anticipated. The exhibition gives an insightful analysis of how early photographers represented Samoans (and all Polynesians for that matter). It demonstrates the manipulation of perceptions, in particular the concept of the noble savage untouched by modern civilization, using stereotypical images of warrior-like men, erotic poses by half-naked women etc.

After a thoughtful morning musing on such subjects, our afternoon was in complete contrast. Along the south coast is a large mangrove region which local villagers have wisely declared a conservation area. We were taken on a tour of the entangled waterways of the mangrove forest in an outrigger canoe. Now if you are (like we were) labouring under the misapprehension that these craft are very stable due to the balance of the outrigger, think again. It was without doubt the most unstable vessel we have ever been in and we survived the entire journey only by not moving a muscle.

Apart from having a big choice of interesting and fun things to do, Samoa has some very practical advantages for cruisers.

NOTES:

The main anchorage (Apia) is right in the heart of town and though there is a lot of form-filling the officials are courteous and helpful.

To go to Savaii (Samoa's largest but least developed island) you need to obtain a permit from the Foreign Affairs Department. Apply 2 days before you want to go.

Diesel is available duty-free and is very cheap at 27 cents (US) a liter. It involves a bit of form-filling but is worth it if you need to buy any quantity. Apply to customs for permission.

Duty-free liquor is available. Apply to customs.

Food is plentiful and relatively inexpensive--especially local fruits, vegetables, and fish from the market.