October 3, 1998

I'm back in Niue, and on my way to Beveridge Reef aboard the 128-foot motoryacht "Markson"! "Hio" is tucked safe and sound (I hope!) in Neiafu Harbor, in Tonga, being babysat by cruising friends and a local who lives within sight of her.

	Sad to depart Hiva Oa after a month visit, but I'm still singing as we set sail.

I jumped on as unpaid jack-of-all-trades crew the day after Nicki left -- couldn't bear the loneliness aboard without her! :) Actually, it's an incredible opportunity -- Few yachts can/will visit Beveridge, which is an awash reef (picture an atoll/island sunk just to sea level, with a 35-foot deep lagoon enclosed within it!) -- it's too tricky to approach! In addition to the pleasures of the landfall...I'm getting a bit of experience aboard a big yacht that's based in Auckland and may be looking for crew this NZ summer! Plus...I'll get to log hours on a commercial vessel -- time with a new friend aboard another yacht has got me all inspired to get my captain's licence, and perhaps pursue a commercial license as well!

So...the adventures continue. I got up early this morning to earn a little shore leave so that I could e-mail you and let you know where I am and what I'm doing. The "Markson" is due back in Tonga on October 9 -- I won't be able to make radio contact until then -- they're not ham-equipped. So...expect to hear from me after the 9th.

I'm swamped with scrubbing and cooking and general running around aboard the "Markson" and have no time to myself to be reflective. (Except when I'm asleep -- I had some remarkably vivid dreams while we were beating to weather on our way here! Leaping, crashing, bucking bronco boats!)

OK -- Gotta run -- The guests will be coming aboard soon! Big love to all...Crew Kristin

PS -- Man, does it feel good to be on a boat and not be responsible! I don't have to worry about weather or sail trim or our progress or anything! I slept more than I ever have in my life!